Chapter 241: Antique Fabrics
The version master who taught Yan Yun came from a Su embroidery family.
Of course, this family is also in the sense of genealogy, and after experiencing the turmoil of the Republic of China and the back, the real family has long ceased to exist.
The genealogy of the master's family and the record of the family history about Suzhou embroidery can be traced back to at least the Jiajing period, when the family's skills were passed down for 400 years, and the family's skills reached their peak in the last years of the Qing Dynasty.
Because of the turmoil, many "cultural relics" that can show the glory of the family have disappeared.
What is barely preserved is a double-sided embroidered silk handkerchief from the Jiajing period, and a quilt embroidered in the late Qing Dynasty and early Republic of China.
If the records of the family history are accurate, this silk handkerchief is the earliest surviving double-sided embroidery in the world.
Not to mention the existence, even if the embroidery that has disappeared in the long river of history has come back to life, it must be regarded as one of the earliest works.
It is not an exaggeration to say that it is a cultural relic.
The record of the simulated embroidered quilt can be traced back to the exact year because the age is not very old.
During the period at the junction of the Qing Dynasty and the Republic of China, the embroidery began in 1908 and was completed in 1913.
At that time, Suzhou embroidery was influenced by Western paintings, and imitation embroidery began to appear.
As the name suggests, simulated embroidery is to be embroidered vividly.
The only remaining antique quilt in the master's house was poorly preserved in the turbulent times, and there were some flaws in the corners.
But the corners are not the point of this quilt.
The point is that a lifelike Russian blue cat is embroidered on violet satin.
This flawed antique quilt was transformed into an evening dress by Yan Yun.
The design of this finished makeup is based on the principle of making good use of every inch of the quilt as much as possible.
The Russian blue cat on the back is designed on the skirt and becomes the finishing touch to this evening dress.
As he walked, the lively Russian blue cat felt like it was going to jump off its skirt and into the arms of the clothed man.
When it comes to the inheritance of skills, the Parisian workshops that are touted as "rare treasures" with centuries of history must be a bit famous.
For example, Dior Haute Couture is particularly proud to announce that it was included in the Vermont embroidery workshop, which was only established in 1956.
Chanel's haute couture is famous for acquiring a number of artisanal workshops.
Even the Lesage embroidery workshop, which was acquired by Chanel and is considered to be the oldest, was only established in 1858.
The history of Lanel, an embroidery workshop bought by Chanel Haute Couture, is only in 1949.
Moreover, both embroidery houses were acquired by Chanel after the new millennium.
How can such a bit of history be compared with the history of Suzhou embroidery for more than 2,000 years, even if the family inheritance of the master's family has been four or five hundred years.
If you really want to talk about embroidery skills, you let these workshops try the family heirloom stunt of the master of "Yan Yunjia" double-sided three-different embroidery.
Double-sided embroidery, different colors, different shapes, and different stitches on both sides.
If you talk about embroidering cats alone, there may be a slight difference between the master's skills and the ancestors who embroidered the back of antique blue cats.
But the master's "magic skill" can be a cat on the front and a dog on the back.
Since the beginning of the Republic of China, the generation of the master's grandmother began to study the application of ancestral Suzhou embroidery skills to the fabric of the cheongsam.
It can only be said that these embroidery workshops in Paris were established and developed because of Paris Haute Couture, and they are exclusive to the commercial workshops of Haute Couture, and the embroidery skills of Suzhou embroidery masters belong to the intangible cultural heritage level.
Such a skill, just used on their own cheongsam, just let the Chinese people know, it is absolutely a tyrannical thing.
Before being tossed by Yan Ling and coming to France, Yan Yun's version master really did not have an "international perspective".
After being abducted to Paris for a walk, the master's mind also changed a lot.
Her daughter was "influenced" and chose to stay in Paris to bring Chinese embroidery skills to the world stage with the Yan brothers and sisters.
If it weren't for this, it would be impossible for the master's family heirloom antique quilt to reach Yan Yun's hands.
The design draft of the antique evening wear has been revised several times, and every stitch and thread is made by the master himself.
The Russian blue cat on the quilt is embroidered in a one-to-one ratio.
This evening dress, while still in the fabric stage, was taken by Allegro to show to a Russian nouveau riche.
Allegro's marketing is extremely precise, and the upstart is not only a "trencher" in the Parisian Haute Couture club, but also has a Russian blue cat.
Yan Yun's first show was in 2013, and the year when this piece of antique fabric was embroidered was 1913, a full 100 years.
If you want to talk about antique fabrics, no brand has such an antique level as Yan Yun, if you want to talk about skills, people who can embroider embroidery directly are available but not sought.
Coupled with the Russian blue cat, this makes the Russian upstart have to buy it.
Yan Yun's evening dress, because of the uniqueness of the antique fabric, was directly booked by this "trencher", measuring the size and making the desk, all of which were exclusively customized.
The price of this dress is as high as 3 million euros, and all the money that Yan Yun and Allegro spent in Paris last season has been earned back.
Driven by this upstart, many people from the Haute Couture Club came to the door and asked if they could customize the embroidery patterns privately, so that the masters of embroidery could embroider their pets one by one on the customized clothes.
The biggest disadvantage of being handmade is that it takes time, especially when the top skills are only in the hands of a few.
No matter how many orders you can't make, what's the use.
And the one-to-one argument is even more impossible.
The Russian blue cat on the antique fabric, how much time it took to show off, there is no way to calculate at all.
If it's a cat, it's fine, but if a customer says they want to show off a large dog, then it's definitely not possible to show it off vividly in their clothes.
Yan Yun's show is not open to the media, and it was quite helpless at first.
There are rules for how many clothes should be on the runway each season.
But not every piece of clothing can be on the runway, like this one-of-a-kind, impossible to replicate evening dress that has been bought by the Russian upstart, it depends on whether the buyer is willing to let you take it out on the catwalk.
Yan Yun has no way to design so many clothes in such a short time with quality and quantity, he can casually meet the requirements of the number of shows, and then there is enough surplus for high-end customers to determine whether they can let the clothes that have been bought out enter the show according to their own wishes.
The Russian upstart said that her clothes are okay on the catwalk, but not with the media.
Yan Yun's debut, if this finale work is missing, it will be meaningless.
When the Russian noblewoman made such a request, Yan Yun only had this one order at all.
But Yan Yun still agreed without hesitation.
Not only do you not invite the media, but you don't even want buyers.
Yan Yun's show, only real buyers and ...... can come to see the show.
their pets.
This is something that has never happened in the history of Paris Haute Couture.