In fact, the most common practice of saury in ordinary people's homes is wontons and noodles, saury wontons were originally ordinary snacks in the south of the Yangtze River, and the filling should have seedlings and eggs in addition to saury, with delicate taste and fragrance. ”

"It's just that now the environment is polluted, the number is getting smaller and smaller, and the market price of each three-tael saury is at least 4,0100 catties in mid-March, who is willing to take it to wrap wontons?"

"It's a pity that Qingming is the fate of the swordfish, because they mate before and after Qingming, and then the bones start to harden. Fortunately, with this hardness, the price will plummet, and the original thousands of yuan a pound of gold and expensive goods suddenly lost their appearance and became dozens of dollars per catty. ”

"At that time, ordinary people were able to buy some and make saury wontons. After tossing, the delicacy returns to its original appearance, its situation is like a sparse car in front of the door, the boss is married to a businesswoman, and the ups and downs of the world are just a knife fish!"

The words won the laughter of everyone, and the saury was ripe and began to taste. Sure enough, it is delicious and abnormal, and it melts in the mouth, which is diametrically opposed to the firm taste of the reverse fish just now, and each has its own merits.

Johnson closed his eyes, reminisced about the rare deliciousness, and sighed: "Since ancient times, there have been many poems praising the saury. Mei Yaochen said: I have seen Yang Hua fluttering, and the fish river is fresh fat. ”

The most famous is Su Dongpo's sentence, looking at the silver knife from the net, depicting the scene of the fisherman catching the knife in the spring of March, the peach blossoms are beginning to bloom, and the fisherman catching the knife fish is easy to understand, which has both a sense of movement and a sense of scene. ”

Chef Liu continued: "As a chef, the eyes of the authentic river knife fish are small, the gills are bright red, the beard is yellow, and the tail is dark. Of course, the most important thing is to taste, the freshness of the river knife is not comparable to the lake knife!"

"Before the Qingming Dynasty, the fine bones were as soft as cotton, and after the Qingming Dynasty, the fine bones were as hard as needles. Qing Dynasty gourmets believed that saury was a spring delicacy, just because the saury was delicious and outdated, and once the Qingming Dynasty passed, the meat quality became old and the bones became hard, so the taste was greatly reduced. ”

"In order to solve the problem of knife fish stinging and easy to get stuck in the throat, Yuan Mei's "Suiyuan Food List" provides two methods: one is to scrape the fish fillet with a very fast knife and remove its thorns with tongs, and the other is to cut the back of the fish obliquely with a quick knife, so that the broken bones are broken, and then fry the yellow ...... in the pan"

"I didn't know that there were bones when I was about to eat, and as for the fried saury to make it crispy and then eaten, it was regarded as a hunchback by Yuan Mei, and his person was not alive, and he was violently sent to heaven!"

"The common people also have their own methods, one is the saury rice, nail the saury to a thin wooden rack, or simply nail it to the wooden pot lid and put it in the rice pot to steam. When the rice is cooked, the fish is also rotten, and all the flesh falls into the rice, while the bones are left on the wooden rack or pot lid. ”

"The other method can be called the meat skin method, first peel off the knife fish skin, can bring out part of the thorns, and then scrape out the flesh, cover the side of the meat skin against the meat, and then pat it with the back of the knife or a wooden handle, those annoying fish bones will pierce into the meat skin, and then wipe it with a knife, it is a knife without bone spurs.

After speaking, he asked the waiter to put away his tools, and said: "Please keep some stomach for your guests, there is another dish today, and the final finale is my personal favorite delicacy!"

As soon as everyone heard Master Liu say this, whether it was a reverse fish or a river knife, it was rare and delicious, and it was a good word.

"What's more delicious?" Johnson put down his chopsticks and quipped, "Master Liu, don't lift a stone and hit yourself in the foot!" The first two courses are already at a very high level, could it be that the last one is even more powerful?"

After a meal, everyone was familiar with it, and it became easy to talk, Master Liu smiled and said nothing, signaling to serve. Everyone stared curiously at the big casserole, steaming, not knowing what was inside?

"Huh, is it ......?"

Johnson took a deep breath and said in surprise: "Fish soup?

Master Liu slowly opened the lid of the pot in front of everyone's eyes, and inside was actually a pot of milky white fish soup, on which all kinds of small fish floated, the longest was no more than two inches.

"Qiandao Lake Miscellaneous Fish Soup!" Chef Liu introduced: "The so-called miscellaneous fish are some small fish, as the name suggests, they are "small" and "miscellaneous", also called small rough fish, cat fish, and a large number of grassroots class. ”

"There were trout, little ondin, little mandarin fish, little hemp sticks and meal sticks that chased the boat, and even a few shrimp and knife loaches that were drilled around. ”

"In particular, there is a kind of small fish as thick as a finger, which fishermen call meat rollers, which are tender and full, with few spines and soft, but the meat is hard and has an unusual taste. ”

"This pot of boiled small trash fish, many members, variety, each has its own taste, eat a pot of fish to eat different tastes, is the characteristics of small trash fish. ”

Everyone suddenly realized, even Johnson was the first time to see this dish, Master Liu sighed, remembered: "I still remember when I was young, there was a small fish in the lake called trout, a little shorter than the little finger, similar to a trout, fine scales are smooth, the whole body is transparent, and the live fish can see through the internal organs in the belly." ”

"Although it dies when it leaves the water, it is the best of the fish, extremely tender, even the head is chewed, but there is no need to spit out the thorns, and the taste is not said. In late spring and early summer, they swim up the river into the shallow waters of the inner lake, where grass is abundant. ”

"On an autumn evening, if you see a sparkling drizzle on the surface of a calm lake, it's a school of trout coming to the shallow waters near shore to feed. ”

At that time, there were so many small miscellaneous fish in Qiandao Lake that the locals jokingly said that if you hold a handful of lake water, there will be a small fish in your palm. When washing rice and vegetables, you can often use the basket to pocket many small fish seedlings the length of matchsticks. In the aquatic grass in spring and summer, the fish that are in love make a splash, making the water surface sparkle. ”

Johnson didn't expect Master Liu to be eloquent, and in a few words, he sketched a picture of a quiet riverside life for everyone.

"There are a lot of small nets by the lake, the kind of small nets are only four or five meters square, stretched diagonally with two crossed thin bamboo poles, a rope is directly tied to the net frame, waiting for a while like a rabbit, pulling up the rope hard, and the net will come out of the water. ”

"Sometimes it's very rewarding, there are a lot of small fish jumping around in the net, and sometimes you can catch carp, catfish, white-billed white and crabs. Serious fishermen usually row their boats to a bait-rich backwater area and put wire nets, so that no matter how big or small they are, as long as they stick to them, they can't run. ”

"The small fish are hung in the mesh, and they shake in a flash when they come out of the water, and sometimes a wire net can hang more than ten catties of small trash fish. At that time, small trash fish were not worth much, and a dime or even a few cents could buy a bunch of them. ”

"Fishermen often pick out the big and good fish and sell them at the market or keep them for themselves. The rest of the ones that are about to rot their stomachs are sold to farmers to feed pigs and chickens, and the sows that give birth to their calves are full of milk after eating, and the ducks and chickens have eaten and laid eggs!"

The crowd burst into laughter, and the experience was novel and enjoyable. Xia Long has rich experience and can't help but resonate: "I also lived by the river in my early years, and it feels very warm to think of it. Now that time has passed, many fish have disappeared and cannot stand the suffering of polluted water, such as the anchovy in the Yangtze River. ”

Master Liu sighed and said helplessly: "Don't talk about anchovies, even the remaining small trash fish are worth doubled, and even become the signature dishes of many restaurants, dozens of yuan a plate." Take the loaches that fishermen used to feed ducks, as long as they are wild, they can be sold for at least twenty or thirty yuan a catty. ”

"Sometimes the recipe says it's a little trash fish, and when you order it, you're told it's sold out. Go to the restaurant to order trash fish, it's not as simple as just a pot, at least you have to ask what varieties are in this pot of trash fish today, miscellaneous?"

Suddenly, as if he remembered something, Ren Jun couldn't help but say: "A few years ago, I ate small miscellaneous fish in a Yangtze River fish restaurant, and it actually cost thirty-five yuan a plate. Thirty-five is thirty-five, at that time, I clearly saw that there were several chubby red-tailed meat meals in the pile of small miscellaneous fish, this kind of meal fish was handsome and full of meat, the best to eat, quickly order a plate, and wait for the delicious food to be served. ”

"But when it was really cooked and served on the table, it turned into a uniform warped mouth meal! I found the shopkeeper, but I didn't expect people to be confident, saying that the warped mouth meal was the best fish among the small miscellaneous fish. ”

"I can't refute him immediately, there are white meals, meat meals in the fish, meat meals are also called oil meals, and Huanglang meals, and the warped mouth meal is the worst, the meat is less and more thorns, if it is pickled, it will be a shell!"

"The so-called cocked mouth is not materialized, and no one wants to be killed. If the cocked mouth meal can grow to a pound or two, the meat will plump up, and it will become a famous and precious fish, that is, warped white fish, also known as white fish or white strips, whether steamed and braised are beautiful. ”

"Hey, then the shopkeeper gave a thumbs up and said that I was a connoisseur, a connoisseur of fish, how did he know that I could catch fish as soon as I could walk, and I could recognize the species and catties of fish by a piece of fish scales. In the future, every year when I go to that Jiangxian restaurant for dinner, the owner of the store always comes to greet him politely. ”

Master Liu picked up the big spoon, gently stirred the fish soup and said: "The trash fish is easy to clean, you don't need to use a knife to cut open the belly, grab one in the hand, and push the thumb nail of the other hand against the tail of the fish, and push the scales up, pinch it at the fish's pectoral fin, pinch the mouth, squeeze, and all the intestines in it will come out." ”

"Just squeeze out the stomach and intestines, the roe remains in the abdomen, and the small trash fish is delicate and soft, which is really delicious in the fish. If the gallbladder is not removed or broken, the fish will have a bitter taste, and the taste buds on the tongue will be a little tangled. ”

"Sprinkle some coriander or shallots before cooking, if you mix a few shrimps, not only fresh, but also the red color is very beautiful and eye-catching. In the cold winter wax moon, the small trash fish is put into a bowl, and it is frozen into fish jelly overnight, and the taste is absolutely fresh!"

Johnson sighed secretly, remembering that the master once said: Eating fish jelly can make the family poor, because fish jelly consumes food especially for rice, and there is a bowl of fish jelly on the table, so you have to estimate the extra bowl of rice when cooking.

With their index fingers moving, they scooped up the fish soup and began to taste it. In the first bite, all kinds of umami explode in the mouth, shouting a good word!

It was as if a big river appeared in front of me, with rolling waves and endless waves. Countless small fish swim in a row, rippling blue waves, and starlight.

Occasionally, one crosses the surface of the water, splashing bursts of waves, a unique fresh sweetness into the taste buds, like antelope hanging horns, borderless, making people smile.

"Trout...... Ondin ...... Small Mandarin Fish ...... Small hemp strips...... And the boat spikefish and the nerd fish?"

I carefully distinguish the various flavors, but I didn't expect that there were eight or nine kinds of miscellaneous fish in the simple single soup. The complex flavors are matched like a harmonious waltz, with high and low, ups and downs, which is fascinating.

It is worthy of the finale, and it is worth the trip!

drank two bowls in a row, patted his stomach with satisfaction, and praised: "After eating Master Liu's craftsmanship, I know what it means to be plain and magical, how to get a fresh word!"