Returning to the capital, I walked through the great rivers and mountains again for more than two months, just like reading a classic, which lasted for a long time.

Winter is coming, half a month of rest, the restless heart is about to move, and suddenly remembered that there is still a large piece of land to miss?

Three Eastern Provinces!

Shenyang, the capital of Liaoning Province, the birthplace of Manchu culture, the eldest son of the Republic, and the capital of the first batch of heavy industry.

When it comes to this place, people always talk about its heavy industry history, the current state of stagnant economic development, and even some pessimistic voices suggest that today's place is just a city of heavy industry barbecue and light industry shouting wheat.

The first stop is the Forbidden City, also known as the Shengjing Imperial Palace, which was the imperial palace in the early Qing Dynasty, with a history of nearly 400 years, and was built in the tenth year of the Later Jin Mandate. After the Qing Dynasty moved the capital into the customs, the Shengjing Imperial Palace became the palace of the accompanying capital, and it was highly valued by the emperors of the Qing Dynasty with the lofty status of the palace of the founding emperor Longxing.

In the past few decades, Qianlong has continuously transported the royal treasures from the capital to store them here, in order to show that they have not forgotten the fundamentals, making this place one of the three major treasures of the Qing Dynasty royal cultural relics on a par with the palace and the Rehe Palace at that time.

I have been to the capital, I have seen Taipei, and today I have crossed the threshold of the Qing Gate, and I am in a trance in an instant, the Forbidden City in Beijing seems to have witnessed the whole process of the feudal dynasty from its peak to its decline, but here it is only to witness the rise of the dynasty. The war of changing the dynasty, the eloquent emperor, and the unprecedented territory seem to sound in the ears the battle cry of the Manchu ancestor Jin Ge Iron Horse.

There is no imaginary splendor, and there is no huge area, so it is quietly hidden between the modern buildings, not brilliant, not publicized, and carrying that special history alone.

The furnishings in the houses here are more humane than the Forbidden City in the capital and the ruggedness and heroism of the Manchu people on horseback to seize the world, and to understand the history of the Qing Dynasty and the origin of the Manchus from the details. After all, it existed two hundred years before the Qing Dynasty was founded.

It feels average, and it is already noon when I go out, and I go straight to the famous Old Four Seasons Noodle Restaurant. I heard that the noodle restaurant has opened many branches, regardless of men, women and children, as long as they come in the old and four seasons, they will first come to a bowl of hot chicken noodle soup.

Dispel the cold, with coriander, chili, sauerkraut, and aged vinegar, and the noodles are not in a hurry to eat. Take two sips of this rich old chicken soup first, and the taste will overflow with fragrance in the mouth, go straight to the taste buds, and touch the heart deeply, which is simply irrepressible, and you can't stop it.

Taste is sometimes the most indescribable sensation, and it seems to have a natural medium to carry a certain emotion, and the same is true for a bowl of noodles, which contains many regional feelings, such as beef ramen in Lanzhou, Erliang small noodles in Chongqing, Biángbiáng noodles in Shaanxi, and knife noodles in Shanxi......

Everyone's food doesn't seem to be noodles, it's a feeling.

Rooted in the familiarity of the bone marrow, the knowledge of the blood connection, the so-called northerners like pasta, the northeast people especially love to eat noodles, the survival of human civilization depends on the fertile soil of fertile land, and the unique black soil gives the foundation and foundation of human survival.

There was once such a question on Zhihu: What kind of city is Shenyang?

One of the highest-voted answers was this: it is a city with the largest consumption of chicken racks.

How much Chaoshan people love porridge, how much Wuhan people love hot dry noodles, and how much Shenyang people love chicken racks. Putting on gloves, moving your hands, separating, pulling, biting, and eating a chicken rack is like a game with difficulty mode, at least not EASY, a contest between people and food.

Men, women and children all hold an old chicken rack in their hands, drink old snow beer, and have a kind of chivalrous arrogance of eating meat and drinking wine in a big bowl.

In the afternoon, I was idle and had nothing to do, so I went to the Marshal's Mansion for a walk. Thinking about the spirit of the Northeast Army in modern history, whether it is a generation of heroes Zhang Zuolin, or a loyal minister Zhang Xueliang, you can find a considerable figure here.

In the house, there are carved beams and painted courtyard houses, the Shuaifu Garden with water pavilions, the magnificent Daqinglou, the European-style border bank, the Shuaifu Office, the Red Mansion Group, and the small and elegant, Chinese and Western Xiaoqinglou, Zhao Yidi's former residence, which are scattered and complement each other.

I can't help but sigh at the love and hatred of hundreds of generations, the thousand-year-old culture, the silent opposition between the Forbidden City and the Great Marshal's Mansion, as if history constantly reminds us to cherish everything we have now. From the cultural prosperity of the Manchus to the brief rise and fall of the Great Marshal's Mansion, we have learned that only culture is the eternal theme, and the unchanging story will stage the legend of tomorrow.

In every lonely afternoon, in every sleepless morning, in every familiar night, what happens to you may not just happen to you.

Because everyone is not the only one in the universe.

Dinner came to the old courtyard, the store layout is unique, the private room with old objects on the kang, the humorous paintings on the walls that are deeply rooted in the hearts of the people, just entered the door and the waiter wearing a broken cloth sounded: Coming, brother!

Seeing the legendary old-fashioned barbecue, the charcoal stove in the past was made of mud, and a cross-patterned barbed wire was directly placed on the charcoal, and a complete barbecue stove was built, forming a very recognizable shape of the old-fashioned barbecue. If the meat is grilled with a lot of fat, the oil dripping onto the charcoal will instantly cause an open flame, and a burst of heat will immediately hit the face, which is spectacular.

An extremely important factor is the dipping sauce for barbecue - sesame sauce with sugar. It should be said that in the minds of most northerners, sesame sauce should be a salty seasoning, but the locals creatively and rudely combine it with white sugar to become a dipping sauce for barbecue.

Sandwich a piece of meat that has been scorched on the outside and flexible on the inside, dipped in enough sesame sauce and white sugar, and stuff it into your mouth, the mellow and sweet coat wraps the hot and fragrant meat, and the sweet taste is unforgettable.

I was surprised to find that there is something called QQ chicken rack?

After taking a bite, I found that there is a lot of article in it, the chicken rack before frying is wrapped in a secret seasoning, and the first thing that stands out in the mouth is the sweetness, and then the sauce aroma mixed with the flavor of various spices.

It must be accompanied by old snowflakes, known as stuffy donkeys, "two bottles of ordinary beer on top of one bottle." I heard that there are always good people who do not want to believe in the magic of this blowing, and vow to challenge the eight bottles of ten bottles, but when they poured the last sip of the fourth and fifth bottles of the mountain, they fell defenselessly and did not wake up.

There is only one feeling: the volume is full.

Eat and drink to your heart's content and stroll along Middle Street, known as the First Street in the Northeast. Built in the 31st year of Guangxu in the Qing Dynasty, because of the proximity to the state government, it is generally a lawsuit and a report of the people to rest and wait for the letter, so it is all hotels, restaurants, teahouses, and hotels.

To this day, the street is still dominated by restaurants, and there are more than 40 shops operating famous snacks, tea houses, restaurants, etc. At the north exit of the street, there are also couplets written by Bao Rukai, a famous calligrapher and a former senior high school politician, on the wooden pillars on both sides of the street, reflecting the prosperity of the street in those years.