Chapter 49: Eat

A meal raised Hong Yanwu and Chen Liquan's admiration and curiosity for "Zhang Dascoop" to the peak.

Naturally, they became more and more respectful, and Mao'er became quite smooth.

And the two of them also spontaneously and consciously took on a task.

It is to rotate and make tea for "Zhang Dascoop" every day.

The tea is still "Gao Moer", because the old man drank it smoothly, and you were scolded for changing it for him.

The point is still to pinch the "big spoon" and make him tea early according to his habits.

Every time, you have to brush the first tea jar clean, and then use a layer of tea leaves, no more or less.

With the boiling water, you have to splash your head to dial the hot water, which is called "shabu-shabu".

After that, the lid of the tea jar can be tightly closed.

In this way, the old man came and sat every day, picked up the tea jar by himself, and drank the taste of the mouth, and the temperature was just right.

Of course, there is a purpose for these two boys to be so attentive.

Like Hong Yanwu, when he is free, he always follows "Zhang Dascoo" to get forward, and he is tired of knocking back and forth.

The first is to deliberately mention what Master Chang Jing once said, and want to inquire about the origin and experience of "Zhang Dascoop" from the beginning.

The second is that the fake model is often the successor of Master Chang's craftsmanship, and there is no pity.

He wanted to make the rabbit die and the fox of "Zhang Dascoop" sad, and also felt the risk of losing his skills, so as to stimulate the old man's heart to accept apprentices.

Three, it's another gluttony.

For this reason, he repeatedly asked for a reply, wanting "Zhang Dascoo" to take them and continue to eat delicacies like "Peach Blossom Fan" and "Jade Soup".

It's a pity that Rao is trying his best, these first two ah, it's purely useless.

"Zhang Dascoop" The whole old cigarette bag oil, what have you never seen in your life?

Hong Yanwu's ability to "speak, learn, tease and sing" to others is useless to him.

is the last one, "Zhang Dascoo" pondered, and met two stupid boys who were willing to spend money, and he didn't suffer a loss anyway, so he agreed.

To say, I really have to admit that a good cook who can eat and cook is the person who knows how to eat and drink the most in the world, so this determines that the eating method of "Zhang Dascoop" is extraordinary.

First of all, because he knows the kitchen industry too well, "Zhang Dascoo" will never be confused by the fame of the store, blindly follow the crowd, and go to the well-known "famous restaurant" to eat the well-known "famous dishes".

He always has his own unique choices. To put it bluntly, he only recognizes people, not places.

For example, the first meal that Hong Yanwu and Chen Liquan had treated, "Zhang Dascoo" wanted to eat roast duck.

He was very unexpected, neither went to the well-known "Judequan" at home and abroad, nor did he go to the "cheap shop" recognized by the people in Beijing, but first called to find someone.

Until I waited for a reply on the phone, saying, "Come on, you can do it."

Only then did he take Hong Yanwu and Chen Liquan to the inner street of Xuanwu Gate, and found the halal restaurant "Youyishun" that operated "explosive, baked, and shabu-shabu".

Eating roast duck actually went to a halal restaurant, it sounds fresh, right?

But anyone who thinks this way is a lonely and unheard-of person.

Because the roast duck in the capital is actually divided into three genres.

One is "braised oven roast duck", one is "hanging oven roast duck", and the other is "halal roast duck".

According to "Zhang Dascoo", the founder of "Halal Roast Duck" in Beijing is a chef named Hu Baozhen.

This "first person of halal roast duck" first learned the art in the old "cheap shop", and later combined the methods of "oven roast duck" and "palace roast duck" to create the unique skill of "halal roast duck".

So this dish has not been famous for a long time from its inception, in fact, it is only less than a hundred years.

But don't forget, in any industry, the most feared thing is "there is a specialization in the art industry".

It is precisely because Hu Baozhen has specialized in how to roast duck all his life that the "halal roast duck" that he founded the sect has a taste.

In the late Republic of China, his craftsmanship not only surpassed the two old shops of "Judequan" and "Cheap Fang", and became the most expensive roast duck sold in Beijing, but he also got a nickname - "duck beard" for this.

Back then, if you wanted to eat his duck, you had to book a few days in advance to eat it.

Therefore, Hu Baozhen's status in the roast duck master is the same as Pan Bingheng, the "jade glutton" in the jade shop, and he is recognized by everyone.

As for today, although this celebrity chef has become ancient, fortunately, his skills have not been lost.

The Master Ai that "Zhang Dascoo" went to find this time is the only successor of "Yahu".

And it is precisely because the "halal roast duck" has not received due attention after the great changes in history, and its reputation has been buried, and it only survives in a corner.

Today, not only is the traditional method still maintained, but a duck is only sold for seven yuan. It's really delicious, inexpensive, and affordable.

On the contrary, the famous "Judequan" and "Cheap Fang" have become mass production due to the large number of customers they receive every day, and the technical level has not been strictly controlled.

Even the ducks selected have been slaughtered from 120 days to 70 to 65 days, lowering the standard.

That's a comparison, inside and out, the gap is big.

In this way, Hong Yanwu and Chen Liquan are not interested in it? They are only thinking about this duck along the way.

Everyone is curious about the difference between the "halal roast duck" that was praised by "Zhang Dascoo" and what they have eaten.

When the results arrived, they lived up to expectations. That's called a delicious, it's really the best roast duck Hong Yanwu and Chen Liquan have ever tasted in their lives.

This is by no means empty words, because the difference between "halal roast duck" and the two types of roast duck that people are used to is indeed significant.

One, that's the size of a duck.

Because the standard 120-day slaughter "Beijing White Duck" is selected. The roast duck that Hong Yanwu and the others ate weighed more than three catties. The sliced meat has to be on three large plates, at least one and a half catties.

In addition, the taste is enough, the meat is lean, not so tender, but it has a duck flavor.

Second, there are unique skills.

The unique trick of the halal roasting method is that the duck pays attention to the lymph nodes (i.e., meat dates), and seals the duck's belly with special spices, so that the roasted duck can not be fishy at all.

These two points are the beauty of "halal roast duck" over the other two roast duck techniques. Halal, clean.

3. Abide by the rules.

Traditionally, Chef Ai blows the duck billet before roasting, in order to froth the fat and separate the flesh and skin.

After baking in the oven for about 15 minutes, the oil will come out from the hairy eye, which is equivalent to self-frying, so as to ensure crispiness.

In addition, the traditional method of making roast duck slices is generally "two eats".

That is, first take off the skin on the duck breast, give each guest a slice, and taste it, because it is very crispy and must be eaten while it is hot, otherwise it will be cold and the oil will come out.

Secondly, each knife must have meat and skin, and when the duck head and loin are finally applied, it means that one set has been served.

As for the 108 knives and 118 knives of the slice duck, that is only the standard for technical assessment, and the actual operation cannot be done like this, otherwise the time will be too long, and the duck will be cold.

However, these indispensable process links, "Judequan" and "Cheap Fang" have been saved. This kind of "improvement" not only makes the taste worse, but also makes the customer's feeling worse.

Fourth, focus on details.

Excipients are also important.

The lotus leaf cake like the "Halal Roast Duck" is freshly baked, and although you can't read the newspaper through it, it is soft.

It's something to eat, and the appearance is never as important as the taste. With such a cake roll, you can eat the crispy texture of roast duck.

It is for this reason that "halal roast duck" does not approve of rolling cucumbers and duck meat in cakes.

Instead, I think that the cucumber strips with a fresh flavor are just for eating alone to clear the mouth. If you have to roll it in, it will reduce the charred taste of the duck meat on the outside and tender on the inside.

And soup. For the same reason, the duck soup of "Halal Roast Duck" is not a thick soup, but a clear soup with vegetables, in order to be refreshing and greasy.

All in all, this "halal roast duck" from beginning to end not only makes people appreciate a traditional skill, but also feels a kind of human affection. I also experienced a kind of food culture.

Not to mention the cheap roast duck that can be seen everywhere in the future, there are now more and more "Judequan" and "cheap squares" that are becoming more and more like "assembly lines". It's no wonder that it became a big dish for beating two time-honored brands back then.

This is called real roast duck. Only a true expert like "Zhang Dascoo" can find it.

In addition to the above, there is also a deep-rooted principle in the gastronomic view of "Zhang Dascoo".

That is, the quality of a dish is considered to be 60% due to the factors of ingredients and 40% of the craftsmanship.

Therefore, he has always had his own insistence and requirements for the choice of food texture.

Not to mention anything else, just look at whether he goes to see the menu and how the chef orders.

Take this roast duck as an example, he was unhurried at the time, and he explained it to Master Ai.

"Is the dragon's mustache fresh today......? Isn't there fresh broad beans? It's the kind that peels off two layers?...... Now this month, green onions, then you have to Shandong's 'tall white'. The cucumber has to be peeled for me, the person is old, and the teeth are not good...... By the way, don't forget to stew me cabbage heart for the rest of the duck rack, and skim the oil in the clear soup...... Also, the leftover duck oil from the roast duck is also bad, you can take it and give me a yellow cabbage. ”

Listen, just these words, how can people not be secretly convinced?

Ah, the so-called gourmets do not eat with the menu of the restaurant, but have their own opinions, pay attention to the freshest ingredients, and only seek pure taste and not luxury.

Even in the future, the more familiar Hong Yanwu became with "Zhang Dascoo", the more he discovered the inertia of his view.

What is expensive should be reasonable, and what is made of what is made. The material can't be bad, and it can't be good.

Let's just say that sea rice is mixed with celery, celery is very cheap, you have to choose, what celery can be made, and what can't be made.

If you want to eat it, you need the middle one in the heart of the dish, take it out and mix it with sea rice.

Celery isn't expensive at all, but it's expensive to pick out just a little bit in a bundle, right?

And the same is true for sea rice, "Zhang Da Spoon" should be used more than 3 centimeters, like a big hook, the highest grade, also called dried prawns, Hong Yanwu only saw it when he was in Bincheng.

Another example is to make a plate of fried eel paste, the coriander should be short and strong than thin and long, and the pepper must also be what kind of food to meet the needs of the dish.

So on the whole, as long as "Zhang Dascoop" is willing to spend money on what to eat, it will always be worth it.

Of course, this point cannot be learned by others, because it is based on the extremely special personal conditions of "Zhang Dascoop".

Not only does he need to have more than ordinary professional knowledge, but he also has acquaintances wherever he goes, and he can communicate directly with the chef.

Otherwise, he wouldn't be able to eat at all. Where would anyone tolerate him being so picky?

Finally, "Zhang Dascoo" also pays special attention to what to eat when and when to eat, which is not only for the ingredients, but also refers to the physiological changes and needs of people.

For example, throughout the year, when the stomach is weak in a hot summer, you have to eat a little lighter and rely on small dishes to appetize. Autumn is rich in products and fresh goods, so it is naturally the best time to try fresh. In winter, the weather is cold and freezing, people need fat, and meat should be eaten more.

These are the principles of a la carte.

And there are many foods sold outside that are only available at specific times, such as lotus leaf porridge in summer, "fried triangle" in autumn and winter, and there is no time to wait, and people who don't know this point may not be able to taste it in this life if they don't know how to do it again.

For example, taking the whole day as an example, "Zhang Dascoo" also has a criterion, that is, to set lunch as the main meal of the day.

At noon, you must be full, and you must eat the most hearty, but you are quite controlled in drinking, and at most you are slightly drunk. It is important to replenish energy and nutrition.

It's different at night. The old man never eats a lot, only eats liquid food, mainly to nourish the stomach and sleep peacefully.

If Hong Yanwu insists on inviting guests, it is really difficult to be gracious, then at most it is just to drink wine and eat some side dishes and snacks.

But this belongs to Hong Yanwu and Chen Liquan to find trouble for themselves.

Because you can drink a few more glasses of wine in the evening, and the side dishes and snacks that accompany the wine must be exquisite, and the old man will never make do with it.

The sauce duck of "Pu Wufang", the barbecued pork of "Wufangzhai", the dried hare of "Shrimp Rice House", the vegetarian assortment of "Vegan Zhai", and the fried deer tail of "Casserole House...... As long as the old man opened his mouth, both of them had to buy it in circles.

But the good thing is that the old man often makes some homemade things to increase the color.

For example, the crispy fish and lamb in the south flavor, or the fried rape pine and mushroom bamboo shoots in Fuzhou, the fried squeak and vegetarian pork fork in Beijing, the bad chicken in Zhejiang, the sausage in Sichuan, the sweet and sour spicy cabbage dun and the stir-fried mountain chicken with pickled melon in the north and south, etc.

It is not an exaggeration to say that when placed together, there must be a dazzling array of seven or eight butterflies every time, and that is the snack conference all over the country.

Therefore, after eating "Zhang Dascoop" like this, within a few weeks, Hong Yanwu and Chen Liquan immediately felt that their realm had improved.

At least they have a rough idea of what a real "eater" should look like.

That is, there will be no hearsay, no crowd, and no preconceived ideas.

It's definitely not a delicacy, but it has to be delicious.

At the same time, it is also necessary to conform to the laws of nature and conform to the way of health preservation.

The second group has been opened, group number: 608640021

(End of chapter)