Chapter 353: Knife Techniques and Practices

In Japanese cuisine, most of the skushimi is made of raw fish strips, and only a few kinds of fugu are cut so that they are as thin as paper, and you can see through the patterns on the plate. Pen & Fun & Pavilion www.biquge.info

In ancient China, the thinner the cut, the better, and sometimes further cut into thin strips, called "wisps".

Cao Zhi described the cut sashimi as thin as cicada wings, loose as snowflakes, and light as fluttering in the wind: "The cutting of cicada wings is microscopic. Tired like stacks, separated like scattered snow, light flying with the wind, the blade does not turn and cut".

There is a term for cutting sashimi: "chopping sashimi". The pronunciation of the character "斫" is "zhuo2". When chopping the meat, the cutting board should be covered with white paper to absorb the fish juice pressed by the knife. The sashimi with a non-wet surface can be loosely arranged on a plate, and it looks and tastes good.

The master master with excellent knife skills, not only the sashimi is cut very thin and fine, but also the white paper is almost not stained with juice, Du Fu has a poem for this and praised: "The anvil has been wet on white paper."

There have been monographs on the knife technique of cutting the flesh very early.

At the end of the Ming Dynasty, Li Ye reported in "Zi Taoxuan Miscellaneous" that he had read a book of "Wenji Qigu", which may have been written by the Tang Dynasty and compiled the "Book of Chopping", in which the knife techniques listed in the book include small Huangbai, Dahuangbai, dancing pear flowers, willow leaf wisps, turning over the butterfly, Qianzhang line and other names.

The Book of Chops has been lost.

Chopping was once the material for the creation of ancient literati.

Pan Yue of the Western Jin Dynasty wrote in "The Fu of the Western Expedition": "The gluttonous (cook) cuts, the luan knife flies, the blade falls, and the sword falls, and the sword flies", Du Fu and Su Shi also have verses respectively: "The dumpling swings the double knife left and right, and the golden plate is high in the snow", "The elbow is born to see the fish, and the sword and snow fall and fly in shock".

It is the master chef who comes out of the kitchen and performs knife skills in front of the guests as an appetizer before eating.

"Elbow Movement" and "Left and Right Swinging Double Knives", the movements are exaggerated, and the purpose is obviously to attract the audience's attention.

Sometimes, the performers also use a knife with a small bell hanging from the luan knife to add to the acoustic effect of the chopping. The pun on the four characters "靃靃霏霏" ("靃" pronounced "huo4") in "The Fu of the West" depicts the scene of thinly sliced sashimi falling one after another, and also mimics the rhythm and sound of a knife hitting a cutting board (俎).

Chopping is also a subject of ancient painters' creations, and there are three related ancient paintings recorded in the historical materials of Chinese art.

The first is Gu Kaizhi's "Picture of King Wu Chopping Meat" by Gu Kaizhi of the Eastern Jin Dynasty, which depicts the second half of the story of the above-mentioned meso: after the metro-elephant fished out the mullet, Sun Quan ordered the chef to perform the chopping on the spot, and gave the processed sashimi to the ministers in the palace.

The second is the anonymous painter's "Wang Youjun Chopping Picture", from Su Shi's inscription, it can be seen that the painting is Wang Xizhi's scene of watching the chopping of the bridal body.

According to the content of the paintings, the more appropriate titles for these two paintings would be "King Wu Guanzhutu" and "Wang Youjun Guanzhutu".

The third is the Tang Dynasty Du Tingmu's "Ming Emperor's Chopping Picture", which was recorded in the Northern Song Dynasty's internal collection of paintings "Xuanhe Painting"; after the fall of the Northern Song Dynasty, he was once exiled to the people, and later returned to the court of the Southern Song Dynasty. The relevant historical materials only say how wonderful the characters in the "Ming Emperor's Chopping Picture" are, but they do not say who is chopping them.

Emperor Tang Ming is suave and suave, and his attainments in performing arts are extremely high, and the pear orchard industry respects him as his grandfather, and he may show off his knife skills in person.

All three of these paintings have disappeared. Among them, Gu Kaizhi's "Wu Wang's Chopping Picture" is the most precious, and its value is no less than Wang Xizhi's original calligraphy.

There are only two Song Dynasty portrait bricks remaining in the ancient art works that show the slashing, one of which is collected by the Chinese History Museum in Beijing, known as the "Women's Chopping Picture".

The most famous dish of the fish is called "金齑玉脍".

"齑" is sometimes written as "虀", pronounced "ji1", the original meaning is finely minced vegetables, here as a seasoning solution, golden 齑 is a golden seasoning.

The name of Jin Yan Yuxuan first appeared in the book "Qi Min Yaoshu" written by Jia Siqian in the Northern Wei Dynasty. In the section "Eight Harmony Teeth", Jia Siqian introduced in detail the practice of Jin Yan.

Seven ingredients are shared: garlic, ginger, salt, white plum, orange peel, cooked chestnut meat and japonica rice. Among them, the one that needs to be explained is the white plum.

White plum is also one of the ancient traditional foods in China, and before the invention of vinegar, it was the main sour seasoning and was essential when making soups.

In the "Ancient Texts and Books" fabricated by Mei Yi of the Eastern Jin Dynasty, there is "if you make a soup, you only have salt plum", and salt plum is white plum.

After the invention of vinegar, white plum and vinegar coexisted for a long time, and finally vinegar was completely replaced.

The practice of white plum is to soak the unripe green plum fruit in salt water overnight, and then expose it to the sun the next day, and repeat this ten times.

Suzhou and other places are exported to Japan and South Korea, and the "salted plum embryo" worth millions of dollars every year is the low-salt transformation product of white plum.

A type of salted plum is still used in Japanese cuisine, which is the product of green plums pickled with salt and shiso leaves.

There may be a relationship between white and salty plums.

Mash the white plum and the other six ingredients into minced pieces, and mix them into a paste with good vinegar. In the same section, Justin also describes the practice of mustard.

In the article "Qi Min Yaoshu", there is no restriction on what kind of fish is used in jade.

At that time, it was still a collective noun, and all silver-white sashimi with golden yellow seasoning could be called golden jade.

The special noun used as a single dish appeared in the "Taiping Guangji" edited by Li Fang and others in the early Northern Song Dynasty.

Also, the traditional snacks of Shunde: Shunde Yusheng is generally based on freshwater fish, and the good quality of Shunde Yusheng is about 750 grams of "Zhuang Fish" as the ingredient, and after buying it, it is first put in the mountain spring water to starve for a few days to consume body fat and make the fish really sweet.

When killing the fish, cut a knife at the lower jaw and tail of the fish, and then put it back into the water to let the fish swim and bleed, and the fish fillet without bruising will be as white as snow, crystal clear, if the procedure of bloodletting is not well grasped, the fish meat has more red water.

After the slices are ready, they should be put in the freezer for a while so that the sashimi will be smooth and sweet. Dip garlic, shallots, onions, soy sauce, chopped peanuts, sesame seeds, taro shreds, fried vermicelli, and add oil, salt, and sugar to the seasoning. The fish skin can be served cold.

The famous, as well as Chaoshan Yusheng, mostly raised in the sand pond grass carp as food, weighing about three catties is the most suitable.

In the morning, the fish are kept in clean water, and in the afternoon, the scales are removed, the fish is disemboweled, the internal organs are removed, a layer of fish skin is peeled, and then the left and right sides of the meat are removed along the backbone, and the ribs and belly are removed.

Wipe off the blood stains and put the fish in a well-ventilated place to allow the fish to be blown by the wind until it is resilient. Slice and eat in the evening.

There are two kinds of condiments: salty and sweet: the salty one is soybean paste mixed with small grinding sesame oil, and the sweet one is tri-osmotic sauce and plum paste sauce, and there is also a plate of raw shredded radish or star fruit slices.

It can be described as good color, fragrance, taste and shape. Usually when eating sashimi, they will drink fish head soup and eat gruel with fish fillet.