96 Game Changer
"Just see and buy?" Wen Xuan put down the coffee cup in surprise, and swept her sharp eyes to Song Yalan, "This is what I mean?
Song Yalan answered the second question directly, "No, I knew it relatively late - Joe didn't seem to want "Voyage" to be involved in this matter, and she told me after the press conference that this is a new business model, and "Voyage" is not suitable for direct statements until the results are out." β
Surprisingly reasonable, almost a little bit like [rhyme], Wen Xuan was even a little uncomfortable, "Did she really say that?"
"In terms of business, whether our magazine advocates it or not should have no impact on the results. However, Song Yalan broke the stakes in one sentence, "Please let us brag for her, just buy an advertorial, there is no need to owe us a favor here." β
This sounds very much like the style of [rhyme], which is finely calculated, and she can't take advantage of her in anything. Wen Xuan moved her mouth, but didn't speak: Whether the advertorial can be sent or not is one thing, even if it costs money, "Voyage" can't be sent to anything. Just see and buy, these four words seem simple, but it is really hard to say what kind of response it will provoke, and China's "Voyage" will never be this up-and-coming bird...... At least not at first.
"You get along well with her," curiosity overwhelmed the shame of failure to tear up, she temporarily put aside her suspicion of Song Yalan, and probed the reality of [Yun], "Didn't you talk to her about this problem of seeing and buying? Not to mention the resistance encountered, this is tantamount to further suppressing cash flow, if the prediction of the market is wrong, they can go out of business directly." β
- Speaking of which, in fact, Wen Xuan has calmed down a lot after hearing that Tan Yu and Zhou Xiaoya were reprimanded by Qiao Yun respectively, this kind of thing is afraid of an exception, a good old man can be bullied, but if you stick to your principles, you will feel that you have no face and are humiliated, but if it is a difficult thing to do, no one can please her, then you don't feel anything if you make concessions to her, and even if she can give you a good face and be a little considerate of you, you will be flattered, this is human nature. Qiao Yun didn't even give Tan Yu and Zhou Xiaoya face, it can be seen that it is not particularly aimed at her, it is this kind of prickly temperament, of course, this is very unpleasant, so Wen Xuan has changed her mind, and she plans to continue to send Song Yalan to dock next time they cooperate.
There's no hatred, she won't look forward to her falling, she is really worried about [Yun] now, after all, so many sunk costs have been paid, so many cases have been broken, she can be said to have placed a heavy bet on [Yun], if the final [Yun] ends up in a gloomy ending, even if it is a little bit of hatred, what is the purpose of all these angers she suffers?
"I'm also thinking about this problem, that is, to see and buy, it is equivalent to completely abandoning the marketing link, so who will create a hit for her?" Song Yalan was also full of doubts, "Is she so sure of her market vision?"
"You haven't talked about fashion magazines and department stores," Ms. Wen said, "and if she continues this strategy, she will definitely not be on the cover of magazines in the United States." β
"The cover of the magazine should be okay, right?" Song Yalan was also a little unsure, but agreed with Wen Xuan's latter judgment, "But the agent's side ...... In particular, the buyers of department stores in the United States should be very unhappy, which is tantamount to completely depriving them of their power. β
"Things 12 and 21. Wen Xuan said, she touched a lady's cigarette and put it in her mouth, and there was a little more schadenfreude in her tone, "In the United States, the buyer can still live without two senior editors as old friends?"
Song Yalan was ordered by Du Wenwen for a long time, and she also had a good idea, so she hurriedly stepped forward to light the fire for her, Wen Xuan took a long breath, shook the cigarette ash, scraped her forehead with her thumb, and laughed, "Speaking of which, I hope that she can make some noise and give the American gang a headache." β
She spat out a large, round smoke ring, "How's her design for the new season?"
"Very good, very emotional-" Song Yalan didn't expect her boss to react like this, her answer was already half a beat slower, and before she could answer the point, she was glared at by the editor-in-chief again. "Who told you about art, I asked you about ready-to-wear, whether it is commercially mature, is there any potential hit?"
"Uh......" This question is not Song Yalan's strength, in fact, the prediction of popular models is also a special knowledge, not the most beautiful clothes are the most popular, she was embarrassed, and after a while, she replied, "It's still the same as before, exquisite workmanship, simple designββ"
"If you can't answer, you can say that you don't know. Wen Xuan didn't 'tsk' her this time, she opened directly, Song Yalan could only admit it, touched her nose and bowed her head and said yes, "You definitely won't know what a hit is now...... Because the blockbuster has not yet been decided, this is the result of the joint decision of the buyers of the large group and the senior editors in the United States, and it is also their ...... Or the confidence of those of us in the fashion circle. β
She took another deep puff of her cigarette, "Heh, just look at it and buy it, if you really do it, how will they mix it up in the future?"
If it were another brand, Wen Xuan would only laugh at them for being plagued, and they had been in the circle for so long, and the stakes couldn't be seen clearly, how did the brand be established? But for [Rhyme], for [Rhyme], which has always been full of confidence and sharp teeth, for this brand with twists and turns and a lot of stories at the first press conference, she would never say that Qiao Yun was carried away, didn't understand it, and was crazy- Maybe it used to be, but now, Qiao Yun has won Wen Xuan's respect with one tear after another, even if she won't admit it, but what Qiao Yun does she will first think that it makes sense, at least it should work if she wants to go, so the more Wen Xuan thinks about it, the more interesting it becomes, the more fun she thinks, and she even hopes that they succeed. "That's a look-and-buy, you have a URL first, right? Do you have one, I'll go see what's going on. β
"I have what I have," Song Yalan hurriedly turned on the computer, a little entangled while opening it, "Editor-in-chief...... I really hope they succeed? But if they do, then we ......."
Indeed, as a fashion editor, the ass must be sitting on the editor's side, that is, see and buy, and the offense is the dual rights and interests of fashion editors and buyers - if Song Yalan was still a little confused at the beginning, Wen Xuan's words have already been very thorough: how is this decided by the annual hot styles and new fashions? It can be said that the palace-level designers, buyers, and editors jointly decide, in the simplest words, that is, user needs are created by them.
If from the perspective of demand, in fact, the demand for new clothes per person per year can be said to be extremely small, the fashion industry is built on vanity and conformity to the heart of the business, the rapid iteration of popular elements, not only the result of internal competition, but also can be said to be an industry consensus - a kind of clothing popular for more than three years, sales will plummet, because most of the customers who should buy have one. So as a designer, you have to give customers a reason to walk into a clothing store every quarter to buy a new outfit, and that's the iteration of the pop element.
And how to sell a new popular element to the public, to create this demand in their hearts? This is the result of the joint operation of fashion magazines and fashion buyers, this line of iteration can be said to be such a mechanism, every year at the fashion week, major brands launch their own new elements for editors and buyers to choose, and buyers and editors communicate in a variety of ways to determine the next season's hits. This kind of cooperation is very diverse, different from person to person, it can be in a salon while smoking hemp at the same time, or it may be that the buyer determines the main style of the next season through the order quantity, and then discusses with the editor to do some special topics for the main promotion, or it may be that the senior editor takes a fancy to a certain item and informs the buyer that he wants to be on the cover, so the buyer immediately increases the order for the ready-to-wear corresponding to this item......
In short, the designer provides an option, while the buyer uses the sales volume and the editor uses the exposure to make the choice. There is a clear chain of transmission of this choice, and the power is always in the hands of such a small group of people, the editor-in-chief of the American "Voyage", the buying director of SAKS5, it can be said that these are the people who decide what clothes the models wear and what bags they hold on the overwhelming advertising. Yes, they may only provide a cover selection, but the brand will also decide its own publicity focus according to the order volume, and those inferior media will also determine the fashion keywords of the season according to the clothing selection of the industry vane, and in the end, the public is affected by this bombardment, discovers the beauty in the new design, is created a demand for new clothes, and enters department stores and specialty stores...... The apparel industry has completed another ecological cycle.
Therefore, fashion week must be opened in the opposite season, although most of the luxury goods are no longer handmade, ready-to-wear is all machine-produced, to be fast or fast, but there is no half a year, how to place an order, how to promote the magazine? Two weeks, but this traditional ecological chain still needs a lot of time to complete a production, that is, see and buy, seemingly simple four words, shake a whole ecological chain, the direct threat is the interests of buyers and fashion editors: if they are not needed, the public can also receive new elements, generate new demand, then why do they stay in this circle? Convenient's attributes are no longer new, is it time for them to retire from the stage of history?
Of course, Song Yalan is not a big editor now, but it doesn't prevent her from having a heart to become a big editor, she is naturally not interested in this new concept, as if someone is poking her back, but Wen Xuan, the highest peak that she can reach as a Chinese fashion editor, doesn't see it that way.
"What's the matter with me," she changed her cigarette to a different hand, "I don't know any buyers, and it's not up to me to operate the hot models...... There will never be a handmade department store in China. β
If Qiao Yun hadn't bitten her to the bone, she might have jumped up and expressed her anger at this rule breaker, and even took the initiative to put pressure on her to block her, in order to maintain the value system that she could use to fake the tiger, but now, Wen Xuan's face has been slapped very painfully, and unconsciously, her mentality has changed a little, and there is a little more schadenfreude in her tone, "This is an American thing, isn't it good to add something to them?" I want to see what they can do with [Yun]." β
She snorted softly, "GA's Mandypark, now in Tokyo, right? Isn't their home the world's largest handmade department store......? They're probably talking about it right now, and guess how they're going to react to the mechanic. β
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David seems confident in this new approach," she guessed correctly, Park is now talking to her colleagues about this fresh industry news, "He said that we have an undervalued [Yun] and some new ideas that can attract people's attention...... I guess that's one of the new ideas he's talking aboutβat least one of them. β
Her tone was more like a debriefing than a small talk, and the man sitting at the desk listened while busily flipping through a thick stack of reports, "It seems, you don't think this new idea is all about it?"
ββ¦β¦ It's hard to say, these guys don't seem to be playing the same game as us. Park Wenhye said from the bottom of her heart, "I have to admit, Kevin, I always don't understand them so well, I mean, create a brand, produce some beautiful clothes, OK, that's understandable, but in a brand desert to sell it tens of millions, more than 100 million turnover, I really don't know how they do it." β
"It looks like we're talking about a marketing genius. Kevin Arnold said lightly, "It makes me even more interested, there are always good clothes, but marketing geniuses don't just come out casually - which one, David or its designer?"
GA Group is indeed qualified to say this, for them, there is no shortage of good clothes and good designers, GA is the world's largest luxury group, and also has the largest luxury department store chain Samaridan, which has dozens of first- and second-tier brands, LV, Dior, Fendi, these big brands are operating under it, Park Wenhui as Samaridan's Asian buyer specialist, regardless of the status within the group, can go sideways in the entire Asian fashion circle, just because she has a good owner. She was actually a little frustrated by Kevin's appearance - but she didn't dare to be sour, there are too many people in the GA Group, Kevin is the hardest one in the background, and he looks up to her to pick her peaches, not to mention that he is also the group's director of mergers and acquisitions, and he is several levels higher than her in terms of position.
"It's a designer. She honestly said that she didn't dare to play tricks. "It was already selling well before David came in β and I think that's why it caught David's attention, but I'm not sure what the designers are doing to promote it, the Chinese market is huge and complex, and I'm sorry, Kevin, I don't know enough about it. β
"Don't be sorry, it's not your job to study its market. Kevin casually said that he was not as amiable as Fu Zhan, but he was also reasonable, "You are doing the purchase for Samaridan, and we have not opened a branch in China yet - I don't think there will be such a plan in the short term, the Chinese naturally do not seem to be very well adapted to buying handmade department stores, Lafayette is preparing to try again in China, but I am not too optimistic about the future." β
There has always been controversy within the group about the Chinese market, and Park Wen-hye couldn't help but say, "It seems that Kevin is pessimistic about the Chinese market?"
"It's a huge market, there's a lot of potential, yes, but it's also a whole new market, maybe more complex than anyone thinks. We're growing at a slower rate than we should, and luckily so are our competitors. Kevin said as he flipped through the papers, he read them quickly, his fingers quickly running down the lines of charts, "What we need more than brands is a special strategy for this market...... Mandy, you've done a very good job, you've been very well informed, and that's not your job β I rarely say that, but I'm very impressed with you. β
He suddenly complimented, which made Park Wenhui quite flattered, she was like a little girl, her face was red with excitement, and the unhappiness of being picked peaches flew out of the clouds early, so that Kevin could remember her name, isn't it the meaning of her completing these jobs?" "I'm just doing what I think is right, and I'm also very interested in this designer, China can be said to be the hell of a luxury brand, and she can get such sales figures in such an environment, which shows-"
"It shows that she has eaten the Chinese market thoroughly, at least, she understands something that we don't understand. Kevin whispered, "Too vast a territory, extremely low fashion literacy and aesthetic pursuits, a flood of fakes, and almost no copyright awareness...... These are the elements that have prevented many brands from doing as well as they should in this market β I still remember the Valentino tragedy. β
"They're now sponsoring some Chinese celebrities in hopes of reshaping the brand. Park Mun-hye said. "But it's not very good in terms of dressing. β
Kevin pursed his lips and gestured, "That's what I'm talking about, new markets, new methods...... Judging from the sales information you've gathered, she's really not afraid of being kidnapped by buyers β and there are no buyers in China who can threaten her. β
Park Moon-hye also had this idea, and when she first heard about it, she was very surprised, and of course very unhappy, and felt seriously offended - but when you think about it, it is really not ridiculous. [Rhyme] is now just beginning to place overseas orders, and if the official website sales she has collected are correct, the brand does not rely on overseas sales, which makes the buyer's constraints on them very small, and as for fashion magazines, there has never been any contact, let alone checks and balances. This whole brand has basically grown savagely, so of course it is fearless and very wild.
"That's what Qiao Yun thinks," she reiterated, "I know David very well, he's very smart, but he's not a changemaker, he's always put everything in order, but he lacks the courage to lift the table." And she's different, she's ...... How she plays this gameβ"
"It's different from anyone. Kevin finished with her, "GameChanger ......"
He whispered, his eyes lingering on the photos in the folder, "Collect information about their activities for me as the highest priority of this fashion week, and I want to see the effect of 'see now, buy now' for myself." β
"Okay, Kevin. Park immediately responded, of course, other brands are no longer important, after all, the really important order fairs have already been held in Milan, Paris and New York, and GA will not casually decide to buy the next brand, this is the top priority now, and there is still a lot of work to be done.
She was still a little curious, "Well, about what David said, the original valuation was too under......"
"If the buy-and-see can be successful, of course the original valuation is too low, and the business acumen of a genius deserves a big premium, which is nothing, it is not expensive to buy with money, ga has money," Kevin said, and he smiled, "However, even if the buy-and-see can be successful, I will not open too high a price-"
"This ......"
"Think about it, Mandy, supply and demand determine the market price, of course, we need a genius mind, but, believe me, if you buy it right away, then the designer will need me as much as I need her. β
Kevin Arnold, the eldest grandson of the founder of GA and a strong contender for the third generation of the owner, and now the 'imperial grandson' who is accumulating experience in the M&A department, said lightly, "Of course, all the assumptions are that the buy-and-see can be successful...... I hope this game-changer from China doesn't let me down. 166 Reading Network