82 Yang Mou (II)
"In this series, what I want to continue is the feeling of restlessness and restlessness and conflict in [Rhyme]......"
I smoke and drink, but I'm a good girl, and I know who □□ - Avril's quote also applies to Qiao Yun at this moment: she is wary of Fu Zhan, always hits him, and bullies him with his demeanor, but in her heart she feels that she is good to him-
Parsons's sequelae, what Qiao Yun hates most in her life is to introduce her designs to others, to be pointed at by others, and to put forward her own 'professional opinions', Qingge is her partner, so she didn't earn this power for herself, but she didn't object when Fu Zhan made a request, which is already a manifestation of sincerity. She knows that Fu Zhan will definitely put forward her own opinions, everyone wants to leave some traces of their own traces in the series released by the brand - this is actually the meaning of the participation of partners, the soul of the brand is the designer, but it is not the cohesion of marketing and market efforts, everyone works together to create the brand of [rhyme], which is the meaning of entrepreneurship, and then guard against Fu Zhan, she will not ignore this most important link. She knew that she had always been stingy, and she never thought that she could overcome her demons, so this time she asked Fu Zhan to come over for a meeting, instead of finding fault and avoiding it, and even she was impressed with herself.
"So my idea was that if I could go to Tokyo, I would bring two collections, the Thorn series, and the newly designed Tai Chi series. The two still share a spiritual core, which can be seen as a continuous work, and if we can't go to Tokyo, we can release the Tai Chi collection at Shanghai Fashion Week in September. "The whole design series was fixed in a few days, and some of the clothes were only made in rudiments, and Qiao Yun put the inspiration sketchbook in front of Fu Zhan," The transformation of commercial ready-to-wear is still relatively easy, after all, it is eternal black and white, so that in September, we will have four series sold in the store at the same time, leather jackets, these basic models, after a year of fermentation, have been very mature, from the sales curve, vitality is still in a relatively healthy medium term, with the increase of brand awareness, this year's sales should be more optimistic, as well as the metallic color of this early autumn series, shirts or something, you can use demons to push the heat, but the profit should not be overestimated, metallic shiny silk is too easy to imitate, CY that can not monopolize all the supply。 ”
"Then there is the bloody hand, this long-term sale can be done for at least three or four quarters, and if it becomes a cultural symbol in Europe and the United States, it may be hot for a few more years. Qiao Yun said while observing Fu Zhan's expression, "The last is the Tai Chi series, black and white minimalist, the ready-to-wear designs I made are all in the back, and the front is the show model, this time there is no overly exaggerated big skirt, the style is mainly transformed into black and white, and the flow and collision of tonality and color are the key points." I'm this, this, this and this, pants, long skirts, asymmetrical panel shorts—I think that's the eye-catcher, and this sweater—"
A series, at most a dozen clothes, was quickly finished, and her mood was almost a little angry in the anxiety of waiting: Fu Zhan laughed almost all the time, his laughter was actually quite routine, and it was easy to tell that it was just a layer of perfunctory, which often aroused her rebellious psychology, but she didn't like it very much when he didn't laugh, at least not now. He was looking at her sketchbook, but his gaze seemed to pierce into her skull, stirring her sympathetic nerves, and his expression was professional indifference, not ......
She thought about it, and suddenly it was hard to be sure that Fu Zhan saw the expression she designed, as if she hadn't seen it, but she didn't remember it. But at least it should be amazing, to be able to recognize, otherwise why did he express his opinions so actively and join the brand so actively? It is not necessarily just to soak her, except for the retreat period, she has 'dated' seven or eight times, and I haven't seen any special reaction from him.
"Very beautiful clothes," Fu Zhan finally opened her mouth, it was a compliment, but her heart sank: this kind of fault-finding tone is too familiar to her, and the desire to suppress Xianyang is not only Chinese can play, many of the teachers who engage in fashion are bitch, especially like to hold you up first, and then cut you harshly until the body is complete, this is simply mental abuse, and they are tired of it, and claim to be an advance rehearsal of the industry's style, 'When you start your internship, you will find that we are already very gentle'. "No, no, no, don't look at me like that, it's a beautiful dress, look at my eyes, I'm telling the truth. ”
Fu Zhan's eyes are very beautiful, he is not as good as Qin Wei, but he has his own temperament, but Qiao Yun can't see through him at a glance like Qin Wei, this kind of mystery makes his persuasiveness discounted, the corners of her mouth still go down, Fu Zhan is happy, "What are you doing, don't believe it? How do you want me to show you? Jumping all over the room, expressing my joy?—— then you missed the best opportunity, at least twice, if you were willing to take out the black disc dragon and thorns and discuss it with me——"
He made a gesture of spreading his wings and flying, which amused Qiao Yun and filled a little bit of her vanity, "Okay, but what? But where?"
"But I don't think it's in line with the brand. "Fu Zhan is more mature than Qin Wei, he can bend and stretch, when he should put down his body, what is his face? I don't know at all, and he is sharp when he is serious, but he is a little softer than Qin Wei, and he is not sharp enough to hurt people-he is more like stabbing a knife while smiling sincerely, and he gently and skillfully denies the idea of a whole series, but his expression is very sincere, as if he has no intention of causing any harm, "The quality of this series itself is of course very high, you are very good at deconstruction, and you also attach great importance to wearability- This is your traditional strength, if I want to say, your design is full of over-age maturity, this feeling comes from all aspects of the details, if this series of clothes is changed to the name of a master, is it enough to walk on the catwalk of New York Fashion Week? I think it is qualified, maybe it needs some embellishment, it needs some inspiration from the team, but the complete core makes it a very solid series, worthy of the research of critics, life and death black and white, the transformation of the two emotions also makes it very topical. I can see why you think it's a good fit for Tokyo Fashion Week – it's a bit ethnic, it's a fashion expression, and that's a plus point for a foreign fashion week. ”
Why didn't Brother Qing mix up to look at the design, but Fu Zhan could get it? This is not only the difference in the resources of the two, but also the big difference in vision and professionalism, Qiao Yun pursed her lips, and had an ominous feeling: Fu Zhan's analysis is too reasonable, to the point, and well-organized, she can't help but go to heart. The more justified the praise is now, the sharper the criticism will be.
"However, the temperament of this series - according to my judgment, is sunny and cheerful," Fu Zhan said, his eyes swept over Qiao Yun, burr, and there was no doubt in his tone, as if he had seen through her creative mind. "Many details are evident, the overall lifting of the tone, black and white, but finally ending in white, the spiral silhouette, all hint at the designer's mood at the time of drawing, the willow and dark, the hope for the future, and maybe a little uncertain - the designer's emotions are expressed through the work, which is a proof of strength - but it is unprofessional. ”
"I know that designers don't like to repeat themselves, but for the brand, proper self-repetition is precisely the most necessary, the design can be changed, the source of inspiration can be constantly changed, but the brand's temperament can not be easily changed," Fu Zhan crossed his hands and said seriously, "At least not in the early days, [rhyme] is a dark, hardcore, powerful design, the sweetness of love can only be used as an embellishment, this design should be repeated for at least three to five years, and then start to make a slight transformation to provide new topics - This is the norm in luxury operations. ”
"But I can't keep repeating myself for three years in a row—" Qiao Yun burst out in protest, quickly biting her lower lip again: she had already guessed what Fu Zhan's reply would be.
"So that's the difference between you and the top designers, you're good, you've got aura, but you're not consistent enough. Fu Zhan said that for the first time there was a hint of uncertainty in his tone, but it was not his own conclusion, but his reaction to Qiao Yun, "In the final analysis, clothing design is a link in the industrial chain and commercial operation, at least luxury clothing is like this, it has the attribute of artistic expression, but this is not all." Consistent, consistent, high-level output of works with similar temperament and bright spots is a must-have quality for top designers - style stability, which is crucial, otherwise your clothing will be difficult to have-"
"A steady customer base," Qiao Yun whispered to him, "you have to learn to decorate small changes with a lot of details, if you don't have the ability to maintain several side lines at once...... Don't let a thought break break open. ”
“…… That's right," Fu Zhan's gaze carefully roamed over her face, as if he was calculating the reason for her strange depression, "I know this kind of subtraction is not easy, but if you don't want to be just a designer in a talent show, but want to really become the top in the industry-"
"Then you have to count 'breakthrough' as a business element as well. Qiao Yun said, she stood up and shook her shoulders, armed with a strong and cold tone, "I know what you mean—I'll think about it, but...... It's my brand, it's up to me to make the final decision, and I'll show you the final design at the next meeting. ”
Fu Zhan looked surprised, maybe he was ready to quarrel: forcing the designer to accept such a huge change is tantamount to erasing part of his self - even if he said that the Tai Chi series was worthless, the blow would not be as big as it is now, not good, it can be changed, but it is very good but it can't be sent, it is still such a commercial and practical reason, just like letting the designer strangle his own child, it is normal for the designer to rebound or even get angry. No matter how good her temper is, she can't bear it so much, let alone Qiao Yun's firecracker character, I thought she would stand up and tear it to the end-
"The deadline for ending in Tokyo is July 1. ”
But Fu Zhan was very good at reading air after all, although he was puzzled by Qiao Yun's obvious depression, he finally chose not to ask, and just gently prompted. "Before that, you have three weeks to go, and I'm always available if you need to discuss it. ”
Every time he came to the studio, he was a little reluctant to leave, and always wanted to see more design details, but this time he left very happily, as if he saw through her turbulent emotions from Qiao Yun's barely maintained calm-
It's always been like this, and if it's a few seconds later, maybe Qiao Yun's mask can't be maintained anymore, almost just when she heard the sound of the door frame closing, she smashed the sketchbook in her hand to the ground, squatted down and buried her face deep in her knees, even a few breaths couldn't calm the suffocation in her chest, the cold anger from the past spread upward, damp and gloomy, like sea water, bitter and salty, and like vines, flexible and tightened, methodically squeezing out the air in her chest.
- Fu Zhan is indeed really level, his point of view is the same as her mentor at Parsons: if it is a talent show, its purpose is to examine the most comprehensive and excellent contestants, for the sake of ratings, they will also hope that the contestants will present as many styles as possible, but in fact, as far as the brand is concerned, frequent transformation is definitely taboo, if you are a small shrimp in the designer team, then you don't have to worry too much, try to contribute inspiration, the design director will naturally make trade-offs and trade-offs, but the tonality of the brand itself is only allowed to make limited changes when changing the designer, if the original sales are good, then shareholders will not easily allow the brand to transform.
On Parsons' first day of school, the tutor threw this topic to all her students, and every assignment they handed in had to be based on this premise, and her comments on Qiao Yun's design coincided with Fu Zhan, "Very good single product design, but as a brand, it's too jumpy and emotional, and you have to learn to be stable." ”
How can she be stable? Her design is originally a voice of her heart, she designs wherever she thinks, and asks her to repeat it, it is like asking her to die, she can't draw it even if she kills herself, this is the reason why she finally chooses to drop out of school, if the design makes her so painful, what motivation is there to continue? She can't avoid this question: If the design is not sincere enough, it is all commercial calculation, then, what should she use to move people's hearts? Will the whole show be reduced to an emotional scam?
Maybe this is just the words of the mentor's family, and she has thought of too many excuses to forgive herself: if I can be my own boss, maybe this time my design will be more unified, and it will not be a problem - in these conjectures, under the catalysis of time, she gradually forgot the pain when faced with the choice, and the reason why she did not stick to Parsons gradually became blurred, because she couldn't keep up, because she was too tired and annoying to accept the question-
In fact, it is also true, there are always too many and too complicated reasons for a person's failure, but only this reason makes her feel painful: all the other weaknesses, she can make up for them through hard work, but, how can she choose between sincerity and business? What she wants to do is luxury, not avant-garde art, she must be responsible for commerciality, she must not be overly arrogant about her artistic side, otherwise it will be a failure, but-
This is an unsolvable knot, the more I think about it, the more frustrated I become, it's like I'm suffocated, I'm going crazy if I don't say it, Qiao Yun instinctively grabbed the phone to call, but before dialing it, he paused again: If you call now, it won't work, Qin Wei is either filming, or rehearsing with Tan Yu, preparing for the audition for "Six Central Flowers". How important this audition was to him, she wouldn't have been unaware that he should be fully immersed in the play now, and it was not suitable to disturb.
Throwing the phone aside, a little negative, he raised his foot and wanted to step on it, but he stepped on it and put it away, Qiao Yun smiled self-deprecatingly, bent down and wiped the screen, and put it aside. She sat down again by the bay window, leaned her face on her knees, and looked sideways at the sunset, the lonely silhouette slowly melting into the gold-rimmed shadows. 166 Reading Network