62 2008 Spring/Summer Show (Medium)

"Holycrap......" Song Yalan, the intern editor of "Voyage", whispered, she lifted her glasses, leaned forward, squinted her eyes so that she could see more clearly - the highlights on the catwalk let all the details of the costume be seen in full view of the camera, but it also made it difficult for the audience to focus on a specific focus, leaving only a sparkling impression, which is of course a good thing for designers, highlights always make the clothes more upscale, but for the audience there are pros and cons, just like now, Song Yalan couldn't wait to see more details, even if there would be a high-definition catwalk to take care of it later, but even a few days, hours or even dozens of minutes of waiting seemed too long at this time.

"Is she really a domestic original designer?" She couldn't help but mumble to herself again—out of habit, and in order to distance herself from her companions, she used English half subconsciously. "I doubt how many people here will realize how rare this show is......"

She wasn't despising anything - in the short gap between the first series and the last model not entering the backstage, Song Yalan glanced at the audience in a hurry, and confirmed that almost all of the peers sitting in the first row were ordinary editors like her, and she knew that most of the people present were dirt buns: let's put it this way, if it was the nineties, the name of Tai China might not even be able to enter the door of the show, and people will directly treat you as if you are here to copy money and go back to make copycats, and your status in the chain of contempt is lower than that of plagiarized brands like Zara.

Although both are infringing on brand rights, ZARA designers can be incognito, or even find some amateurs to take pictures, it is difficult for white people to find out the roots, but the showmen in China are very easy to screen. The market is too poor, there is no profit, and there are clear infringements, and of course brands don't mind playing some discrimination openly and secretly. Now in 2008, China is gradually getting richer, the luxury market is developing, and the attitude of brands towards high rollers is of course softening, but the discrimination is deep-rooted and not so easy to eliminate. It can be said that in China's fashion magazine industry, if you can fly to Milan to watch a show, you can sit in the front row of blue-blood brands - not even the first row - probably only editor-in-chief figures, ordinary editors? Writing is based on guessing, and the show of a first-line brand is as far away as ordinary people, what world have they seen? Know what is a good thing?

As for the group of domestic stars, Song Yalan is directly ignored, celebrities are the best models and spokespersons for luxury goods, and the vanguard of sales volume, but it is also a recognized fact that the vast majority of celebrities do not understand fashion, Mrs. Xu in Hong Kong is a little idea, and it is already a fashion icon in China, but in fact, at that level, even ITGIRL can't be a foreign country: the purpose of any kind of fashion is to make the wearer look good, she doesn't meet this standard, then she can only be regarded as a hipster, It can't drive the sales of a single product at all, and of course, it won't be taken seriously by the upper echelons of the food chain.

These stars here now, the concept of fashion is simply a disaster, Tan Yu is the queen of the zoo, Zhou Xiaoya is a little better, but it is also a stacked way to wear famous brands, what do they know? I'm afraid I just think that the clothes on the stage are too simple and boring, which is also the average person's view of fashion shows: monotonous, inexplicable, repetitive, fancy dress...... It is difficult to appreciate and not understand is a common feedback, and Song Yalan does not blame them, there is a threshold for art appreciation, and she is one of the few people in the venue who can cross this threshold.

After graduating from elementary school, she went to the United States to study, in New York, she studied at Lincoln High School, was a classmate with ITGIRL, and even went to the birthday party of the now popular "Gossip Girl" actress B, living on the Upper East Side, why hasn't Song Yalan ever seen the New York Fashion Week show? Entering this circle, she is no longer an ordinary Chinese, enjoying the noble privilege of not being discriminated against, at first she went with her classmates, in order to better enter the social circle, and later she saw her interest, and the brand is also used to sending her an extra invitation, these invitations are of great significance to many people, it is difficult to get it, as if it is a symbol of status, but for people in the circle...... Well, with this identity, it's very easy to get.

In New York, in addition to the biannual fashion week, if you want, 365 days, you can go to the garment area every day to see the design, Song Yalan has seen too many shows, so much so that you can feel the brand style at a glance, this is a metaphysical experience, the capture and experience of beauty, can not be quantified, instinctive and private judgment. Most of the shows of Beijing Fashion Week are commercial, vulgar, and individual independent designers: they don't know what to say, they are absurd and naïve, and a few small shows: poor and interesting...... And all of these shows are based on Chinese characteristics - that is, if they are a real fashion powerhouse, most brands will get so low scores that the difference between them is no longer worth discussing.

's show is worth mentioning aesthetically, or the only thing worth mentioning is only aesthetics - of course, there is a huge amount of money that can fully show the aesthetics, any kind of feats of burning money always naturally bring extravagance, which adds a bit more charm to her show, but that's all. The whole show is just a little girl's crazy dream, because the money has become a reality, the rough look is gorgeous, the degree of completion is also high, it seems to be a standard work, but in fact, all her items do not have the value of discussion, if in New York Fashion Week, the enraged critic may let out a mean laugh - no way, most of the people who really engage in fashion are poor, and naturally it is inevitable to be a little cynical, and it will be particularly harsh on the local tyrants who only know how to throw money.

As for [Rhyme], the performance of [Rhyme] is completely extreme, just as unbelievable, but it is in two different directions from []: how hard you believe that someone is willing to spend so much money to give yourself a childish and full of pink bubbles daydream, how hard it is to believe that China can actually give birth to a designer who is so mature, so talented, full of aura and free - or the latter is more unbelievable than the former, because rich people often have them. And the spark of genius is so rare.

"Has she really never been abroad?" This question really lingered, Song Yalan's mind was half in the change of lighting in the venue, and half was still in shock. "This is impossible, real fashion can only be born in the four major fashion weeks, and the rest of the land should only provide inspiration ......"

This is not discrimination, but an objective description, of course, fashion elements are everywhere, too many big brands draw inspiration from national culture, a good example is the Mexican goddess of art Frida, it is no exaggeration to say that she is still providing inspiration for blue-blood brand designers, but her designs will not become luxury, and it is difficult to copy her style directly to stores all over the world, New York, Paris, London, Milan...... The designers of these fashion capitals are engaged in a highly specialized work: refining, translating, simplifying and generalizing.

Maybe one year Valentino's Yokosuka jacket exploded, and you would think that it was just a direct copy of a Japanese antique souvenir, with some minor changes suitable for commercialization - but if you really put the two jackets together, you will admit that what makes Valentino different, DGY, ROUS, RING...... All the characteristics only come from a little bit of improvement, and such a little bit of skill can only be tempered in the fashion capital, in the backstage of various big brands, and on the catwalk, immersed in the air of art, after countless commercialization and art, and repeated crawling, can finally be honed.

Are there some talented designers in the country? Perhaps, but without this experience, they would be roughly on par with Frida, who can only provide inspiration for fashion, rather than produce perfect products, and this is almost no exception. All the talented designers from all over the world, Elisaab and Zuhairmurad in Lebanon, Kenzo in Japan, they all got ahead in Paris, they got ahead in New York, and their careers matured – in other words, their designs in their home countries are talented, but they still lack the perfect atmosphere and always find flaws. Life force is like a spark bursting around the broken pipeline, which is also fascinating - but it is a completely different kind of charm from [rhyme]. The temperament of [rhyme] is very complete, the designer has not been to the fashion mecca, but it seems to have been honed for a week, show lighting, music, stage design, model's makeup and hair, pace and clothing, tempered naturally into one, which should be unique in the current country, that is, in the four major fashion weeks of independent brands, it is enough to attract the attention of many people.

Yes, for the fashion show, all the details are part of the portrait, the professional audience is not chasing mature commerciality (this is not a ready-to-wear show), nor is it a piece of amazing items (clothes are just clothes, after all), they are chasing the image between design and light, the kind of indescribable but clear sense of art, the whole show has begun from the moment you enter the venue, chasing each other Yin and Yang black and white, the image of opposites is perfectly inherited by the light show - and the transformation of light and darkness, Falling into the garment, it becomes a fusion of leather and velvet, the simple lines and the rigid steps of the model, the feminine charm revealed by the close-fitting cut, the conflict and fusion everywhere is the theme of the show, and the way it expresses is so natural, full of thoughtful care, without losing inspiration playfulness, and EDGY that is one step ahead of its time: this avant-garde does not need to be expressed with exaggerated makeup and unconventional 'thunder' design, it just exists there, and has been shown to 80% of the world There was a strong feeling among the veterans of the above fashion show that this is avant-garde, that this belongs to the next few years, that this is something very new and exciting.

Of course, in addition to this pan-sense of the whole collection, the selection of pieces within the collection is also remarkable, and the ten pieces of this series - or fifteen pieces of design, you can clearly see the inheritance and change of mood and atmosphere, like a complete song, telling a mysterious but tonal story: the first big dress is almost painful, the way the leather is wound has a strong sense of restraint, the dark black and red tones are like bleeding wounds, and the strong impact is an accented opening. The subsequent pants inherited this rigid and gloomy atmosphere, and continued to call a large area of leather, but the silhouette has been transformed from a restrictive close-fitting to a more rigid straight line silhouette, the large flight collar of the suit and flight jacket, the occasional embellishment of metallic colors (very well controlled, too much metallic color will blur the focus, making people think of metal gothic), clearly changed the design atmosphere, in the last appearance of the T-shirt and trousers, the silhouette gradually softened, the reuse of the opening skirt material, is a good echo and solution, I have to say that Du Wenwen's opening is very good, and her steps are one of the souls of this show, emphasizing and presenting the tonality of the brand. This is much more impressive than her performance on [].

Such a complete idea, mature design, and sparks of inspiration everywhere...... These, not whether the single product is good-looking, whether the model is moving-these are the things that the qualified show audience is reading, and therefore, the fashion show is actually a high-threshold art form, just like an abstract painting, and the simple 'good-looking' cannot attract any attention at all, and if the 'good-looking' design is appreciated for the general audience, it is only because the artistic image that the designer wants to present happens to be coupled with the aesthetic range of the public. Song Yalan can't tell whether the series is too boring for the average audience now, she only knows that she has been deeply mesmerized: this is a sense of excitement that is incomprehensible to the non-art world, and people like them chase beauty, like an addiction. The gentleman is chasing white. Powder, the old foodies chase after the food, always in the tension of the stock is about to run out, nothing can describe their joy and enthusiasm for finding new food, that kind of comparison. Love is richer faster. Feeling, as if burning, screaming, the meaning of life is rich and sublimated in an instant, and the ecstasy is sublimated—

"I want to see more," she thought instinctively, "when is the next set coming out?" Hurry up, overdo it, show up—"

"We have to see more," she judged sensibly, "a series can't fully tell her level after all, maybe it's just such a miracle?" Maybe it's just the peak of her inspiration that she can't reproduce—"

In the tension that her heart was about to jump out of her throat and her skin was about to burst, the rhythm of the lights changed instantly, rearranged quickly with the music, and converged towards the entrance, and at the moment before the model roared out of the stage, Song Yalan's eyes inadvertently fell to the opposite side of the catwalk, on the face of an international actress, to that dazed face, she couldn't help but give a slight sneer with a sense of superiority, and hurriedly thought: "Such a high-level art form, can you understand it......" 166 Reading Network