Chapter 10 Ma Bufang Mansion Taer Temple

After breakfast the next day, it was almost nine o'clock. The three of them took a video recorder and a camera, looked for a place to burn CDs, went around, and finally found one, negotiated the price, put forward relevant requirements, stared at the designers to design and produce, busy; More than an hour. At ten o'clock, the three of them drove to Ma Bufang's Mansion first according to the guidance of the navigation. Ma Bufang Mansion is in the downtown area of Xining, and soon arrived, parking in the parking lot opposite the ticket office, Qianxun got off the bus first to buy tickets, and then a group of out-of-town visitors Hulala poured down from a minibus. Li Hao said happily: "Hey, you don't need to hire a tour guide, just go with them, wait first, let's go in with them, and it will be clearer to have a tour guide." ”

Ma Bufang Mansion was founded in June 1942, that is, in the 31st year of the Republic of China, costing 30 million oceans, is Ma Bufang's private residence, named "Xinlu". In the Ma Bufang Mansion, the walls of many buildings are inlaid with jade, so people also call it "Jade Mansion", which is the only private building in the country that uses a large amount of jade.

The mansion is composed of multiple courtyards and different forms of houses and gardens, and the houses of each courtyard are arranged in an orderly manner and the structure is rigorous. It constitutes a unified and harmonious whole.

Ma Bufang Mansion is the most well-preserved local ethnic cultural characteristics in Qinghai Province, with high historical and cultural relics value and strong local ethnic cultural characteristics, and was identified as a provincial key cultural relics protection unit by the provincial government in 1986. The courtyard preserved by the mansion covers an area of nearly 30,000 square meters, with a construction area of more than 6,800 square meters, a total of 298 houses, which are composed of seven independent and connected courtyards such as the front yard, the middle courtyard, the south courtyard, the west No. 1 courtyard, the west No. 2 courtyard, the west No. 3 courtyard and the back garden, each courtyard and the important hall house have a secret passage to communicate, the courtyard design is exquisite, the building is simple and elegant, and the whole courtyard reveals the deep, solemn and mysterious atmosphere of the old house. In 2007, the scenic spot has been rated as a national 4A-level tourist attraction. ”

With the loud introduction of the tour guide, a group of people marched forward, through the front door, the number of people listening to the introduction gradually decreased, Qianxun took this opportunity to pull Li Hao and Liu Zhiyang to squeeze to the tour guide, this is Yang Qianxun when visiting the old problem, working in Shenzhen, there is a chance to travel is not easy, every time to the scenic spot, Qianxun will carefully visit, listen carefully to the tour guide, and go home to look at the relevant webpage, in order to remember deeply. Walking from room to room, Chihiro and Li Hao both followed the tour guide hand in hand and listened carefully. Listening to the tour guide's introduction, after visiting all parts of the mansion, even including the kitchen, Yang Qianxun also touched the jade chimney in the kitchen, and personally went down to the water prison to take a look, imagining the miserable fate of the people who were imprisoned in the water prison after committing a crime, and they were embarrassed when they came up.

At this time, Liu Zhiyang ran over and beckoned Yang Qianxun and Li Hao, "Come on, I'll take a group photo of you." Without waiting for the two to talk, they held up the camera and took pictures. Looking at Xiao Liu, who was happy and radiant, he was also deeply infected. Liu Zhiyang said: "There is a very large root carving chair in a courtyard in front of us, everyone sits on the chair and takes pictures, let's go over too." ”

The three of them walked to the main courtyard and saw a group of people waiting in line to sit on the carved chair. Seeing that chair, Chihiro couldn't help but think of the Thousand Hands Kannon, and felt that the many roots that stretched diagonally upwards were very similar to the hands of the Thousand Hands Kannon. Unable to bear the blasphemy, Chihiro dismissed the idea of sitting up. Turning around and pointing to a marble tablet, the carving of "Xinlu" inscribed by Lin Sen, the chairman of the National Government at the time, asked Liu Zhiyang, "Xiao Liu, you run so fast, do you know why Ma Bufang's Mansion is called Xinlu again?" ”

Liu Zhiyang smiled and said, "I don't know, what do you say?" ”

Qianxun was also not polite, and introduced: "Xinlu is the "Xin" in the sentence "Weiwu Dexin" in the Tang Dynasty poet Liu Yuxi's "Burrow Ming", and there is a fragrant word below the word "Xin", and the name of the Ma family father and son is "Zixiang, Shaoxiang", which is secretly combined with the fragrance of Xinxiang; "Lu" is taken from the Lu of "Nanyang Zhuge Lu" in "Burrow Ming". I just listened to the tour guide's introduction, and now I am learning and selling. ”

The three of them laughed and laughed, and slowly walked towards the gate while chatting. Looking at the watch, it was time to eat again, and when it came to eating, Yang Qianxun immediately said loudly: "First of all, I can't eat Lanzhou ramen today, I don't want to eat it today, and I don't want to eat it in the future." ”

Li Hao smiled: "Don't worry, this is the capital of Qinghai Province, not only Lanzhou ramen, but also delicious." ”

"Then let's go eat Hunan food, right?" Yang Qianxun proposed.

"Why did you walk thousands of miles, or the same old way?" Li Hao said helplessly.

"It shows that I am more affectionate!"

"But I don't know where there is a Hunan restaurant, we have to find it." Li Hao started the car and drove aimlessly. After turning for more than ten minutes, I heard Liu Zhiyang shouting, "Hunan cuisine, Hunan cuisine, Maojia Hunan restaurant!" ”

Sure enough, a luxurious-looking Maojia Hunan restaurant was not far from the roadside, and the three of them happily stopped the car at the door of the Hunan restaurant and rushed inside.

I found a small room to sit down, a little girl who was short and had two plateau red on her face, followed shyly with the recipe, Yang Qianxun took the recipe and looked at it, and felt that Hunan restaurants all over the country made the same dish! It's similar to what you often eat in Shenzhen, so I ordered a few casually. Soon the dishes were all on the table, the little girl has been serving beside her, the whole dining process was very pleasant, and Yang Qianxun praised while eating: "Not bad, not bad, very authentic!" If you want to eat Hunan food in the future, you will come here. ”

After paying, Li Hao asked, "Do you still play in the afternoon?" ”

Liu Zhiyang said: "Play! Shall we go to Taal Temple? Yang Qianxun also agreed, so the three of them started the travel itinerary again.

Taer Temple is in Huangzhong County, which is more than 20 kilometers away from Xining, and still needs car navigation, but an hour later, the three of them have arrived at the square in front of the gate of Taer Temple.

After parking the car, the three of them walked along with the flow of people, and the stalls selling local specialties on the side of the road filled both sides of the road. Seeing the three of Qianxun, there were small vendors greeting from a long distance, Yang Qianxun pulled Li Hao into a shop next to him, looked carefully, the most attractive thing to her was those jade bracelets, the shopkeeper introduced that it was made of local Kunlun jade, Qianxun let one take out a look, the color was acceptable, asked the price, the shopkeeper said 650 yuan a, Liu Zhiyang bargained next to him: "50 yuan." ”

The shopkeeper said: "You look at how good the jade is, there are no impurities at all, if you buy it sincerely, add some more?" ”

After listening to the shopkeeper's words, the three of them invariably glanced at each other, it turned out that they could really bargain like this? Li Hao quietly repaid the price, "50 yuan for 2, do you want to sell it?" If we don't sell it, we'll go. ”

"50 a!" The shopkeeper compromised again.

Yang Qianxun also followed Li Hao and said: "It's 50 yuan for 2, if you sell it, I will pay immediately, and if you don't sell it, you will leave immediately." ”

"Okay, okay, hey! There's really no way, business is not good! The shopkeeper looked helpless, but he agreed, and according to Chihiro's instructions, he took out a jade bracelet.

At this time, Yang Qianxun was a little hesitant, is it true that it is so cheap? If you buy a fake, it's not worth 50 yuan!

Li Hao persuaded her that it was cheap anyway, so she should buy a souvenir casually, don't take it too seriously. When the two of them finished paying and turned their heads to walk out, they saw Liu Zhiyang buy a small golden prayer wheel, holding it in his hand and turning it non-stop.

There is a row of all kinds of clothes on the square, there are Qing palace costumes, the emperor's Gege, and there are also Tang and Song dynasties, a white horse's coat color has turned yellow, several people stand on the side, see a girl wearing Gege costumes, sitting on horseback to take pictures. Liu Zhiyang smiled and encouraged Yang Qianxun: "Sister, go take pictures?" ”

Li Hao smiled and asked her, "Do you want to take a photo?" Also go and put on court clothes and take a picture? ”

"Xiao Liu, go ahead, put on a dragon robe, and see if you look like a prince?" Yang Qianxun retorted to Liu Zhiyang with a smile.

"How can you be like a prince? It should be like an emperor. Liu Zhiyang said deliberately seriously.

After passing by the place where the photo was taken, the three of them did not stop and walked directly to the gate of Taer Temple.

At the gate is another to take a picture, enter the door of the roadside long row of red copper texture of the prayer wheel, each tourist walked to the prayer wheel, with their hands one by one to walk forward, I don't know if the rules here or fun, three people also walked over, like the same turn each prayer wheel, while turning to the front.

At a fork in the road, a lama dressed in a red Tibetan robe, like the three of Chihiro on the way to Tianjun, kept kowtowing to the five-body throwing long head, Chihiro stood in front of the lama and looked, the monk stood up after each kowtow, smiling, and methodical. Li Hao pulled her, "Let's go, there are too many believers who kowtow like this here, and there are some of them." ”

Turn your head and see a row of white pagodas in front of you, and see that the introduction is called the Eight Treasures Ruyi Pagoda, which was built to commemorate the eight merits of the Buddha Shakyamuni in his life. Three people turn right in the square in front of the temple, look at the past one by one, walk into the door of the big scripture hall, only to see rows of people kowtowing to the eaves of the main hall, it can be seen from the costume that it is Tibetans, according to the tour guide, they are here to kowtow and make vows, kowtow to 100,000 heads for a merit, the Buddhist beads in their hands are used to count, these kowtow Tibetans are lined up on the wooden couch laid out under the eaves of the corridor, and under the body is a wooden board that has been worn with grooves, look at Yang Qianxun three people standing in front of them, a middle-aged woman smiled at them, None of the three of them understood what was said.

Think about them once, at least 100,000 heads to kowtow, I am deeply admired, at this time the tour guide is still introducing: "In fact, you can see, Tibetans pious kowtow at the same time, head, body, limbs must complete the corresponding movements, each head kowtow is a whole body exercise, so everyone see that their bodies are very healthy, if you are interested, you might as well try?" After knocking, it is guaranteed that the fat person will become thinner, and the thin person will be healthier! Except for laughter, no one responded to the guide's proposal.

Walking into the main hall, a pungent smell greeted you, which was the smell of ghee, which was unpleasant for Han people who had never been to these places! Patience in the inside of a circle, to Yang Qianxun feeling is still very shocking, this hall is a civil structure of Tibetan flat-roofed building, the building scale is huge, the construction area is nearly 2000 square meters, there are 16 large pillars supported inside. The floor is covered with Buddhist mats, and it is said that thousands of people can meditate and chant together. The furnishings inside are also very elegant, decorated with yellow, red, green, blue, and white flags, curtains, and various ceiling caissons, which are all over the hall. There are also precious piles of embroidered hanging Buddhas, embroidered Buddhas; The beams and eaves are painted with Tibetan style patterns and colorful paintings, which are delicate and vivid. The pillars in the hall are all wrapped by the blanket of the dragon and phoenix clouds, and the whole scripture hall is colorful and magnificent. On the roof of more than 1,000 meters, according to religious customs and Tibetan traditional arts, the golden deer prayer wheel equipped with copper gilt, all kinds of gold buildings, treasure vases, pagodas, treasure umbrellas and inverted bells, etc., a monotonous grass and mud flat top is dressed up in a gorgeous and colorful way, overlooking the flat top in the distance, the gold is splendid, giving people a sense of majesty and magnificence. It's just that the smell inside is unpleasant, there are too many people, and after turning around, Yang Qianxun walked out of the hall by himself and waited for Li Hao and the others to come out at the door.

Looking around, I saw that under the eaves of the wall opposite the main hall door, there were also many Tibetans kowtowing, and Li Hao and Liu Zhiyang were already talking with people on the eaves. I don't know if the other party can understand their words, it's just that those Tibetans just looked at Li Hao and the others with a simple smile after resting. Yang Qianxun walked over, called them together, and left the courtyard of the Great Scripture Hall.

The big golden tile hall is located in the middle of the whole temple, the top of the hall is made of 1,300 taels of gold, more than 10,000 taels of silver, and it looks golden from afar. There is also a gold plaque inscribed by Emperor Qianlong in the hall, and the inscription is "Sanskrit Dharma Building". The 12.5-meter-high silver pagoda inside the Great Golden Tile Hall is said to be the birthplace of Tsongkhapa, the founder of the Yellow Sect. Yang Qianxun turned her head and saw a little girl with braided hair, dressed in bright national costumes, like her mother, walking to the big silver pagoda reverently, pressing one hand on it, and then touching the back of her hand with her forehead. It seems that all Tibetans have been worshipping the Buddha since they were young, so it is no wonder that their loyalty to their faith is so respected!

Listen to the tour guide, there are more than 600 resident monks in Ta'er Monastery, in Tibetan Buddhism, Lama is not only the title of the monk, but also represents a certain status and degree, Tibetans are called "Aka" when they first become monks, and only when they reach a certain level can they be honored as Lamas. There are more than 10 living Buddhas living in Taer Temple, if you donate to the temple, you can have the opportunity to discuss Buddhist issues with the living Buddha, be touched by the living Buddha and blessed, and you will also get the gift of Hada from the living Buddha.

After three or four hours of shopping, it was already past six o'clock, and the three of them reluctantly left Ta'er Temple and returned to Xining.