Chapter Forty-Eight: The Charm of Superb Yellow Tea (I)
The discovery and utilization of tea has a history of more than 4,000 years. Legend has it that it was found in Shennong's family, heard in Lu Zhougong, flourished in the Tang Dynasty, and flourished for a long time, and eventually spread all over the world. The Chinese tea culture is a combination of Buddhism, Confucianism and Taoism, and is self-contained. These grow on the turquoise leaves of the Chinese tea tree, floating in the cup of tea. It can be said that "the morning is raining and dewing Yinghua, and the evening is listening to the clear sound of Buddhism".
Time flies, time flies. From the discovery of ancient tea tree species to planting, the farmer has gradually built an ecologically pleasant village with local villagers and under the relay care of generation after generation in the process of sticking to the thousand-year-old tea tree. This has to be said to be a miracle on earth!
For generations, they regard the ancient tea tree of the farmer as a "fairy tree", which is a symbol of the spirit of tea ancestors. Nowadays, the farmer's skill of growing tea and making tea has been passed down to the farmer's hands. After more than ten years of accumulation, Nonglu has been in the pursuit of leap forward, focusing on seeking breakthroughs, he secretly determined that he must revive the ancestral "superb yellow tea"!
Yellow tea is the second largest type of tea in Chinese history after green tea, and it is now in the Middle and Tang dynasties. Its special "stuffy yellow" process has created the quality characteristics of "dry tea yellow, soup color yellow, and leaf bottom yellow", which is regarded as a treasure in tea with its high quality and beauty. In particular, the dull yellow process makes it more mellow in taste.
He and Wu Qing once discussed that yellow tea is exquisitely processed and has unique quality. In all the crude tea operations, there is a record of "cold kneading of young leaves and hot kneading of old leaves". The purpose of tea kneading is to break the cell wall and the pectin overflow, and the tea leaves use pectin to form a cord. It's common sense.
That afternoon, Nong Lu saw Wu Qing tasting tea alone, so he talked to her about tea tasting, and he hoped to extrapolate it to the technique of making tea and gain inspiration from it.
Wu Qing believes that the highest state of tea is the taste of tea Zen, which is soulful at first sight. In fact, after tasting, the tea soup is still a typical Jingshan style, very mellow, not thin at all.
Nonglu affirmed that whether or not re-kneading affects only the speed of taste, and it has little to do with the thickness of the tea soup.
Wu Qing gave an example to Nonglu, broken tea brewing, the taste comes out quickly, and the complete rope brewing, it takes two or three brews, or even four bubbles to taste, everyone understands this truth.
Nonglu nodded yes.
Then, this needs to figure out what causes the tea soup to be cloudy. Generally speaking, there are roughly three types of turbidity in tea soup:
First, the production of hair tea is covered, the tea soup will be turbid, and the farmer rubbed the bottom of the leaf and found that the softness and hardness were moderate, and there was no phenomenon of sparse bottom of the leaf, indicating that it could be excluded.
Second, in the process of refining tea, in fact, the ancient method is better, and the raw materials are graded, and those that have not been screened may have too many impurities in the tea. To put it bluntly, the hair tea is not clean, and it is not managed well when refining tea. This is also the key.
Finally, there is the problem of tea storage, the tea is in the transformation period, and there will be a stage that causes the tea soup to be turbid and not clear. This is often overlooked.
Nonglu likes to dig into the roots and trace back to the roots, which is the origin of yellow tea. In general, there are no more than two types:
First, the buds and leaves of the tea tree variety are naturally yellow, which is called yellow tea. The Tang Dynasty was the naturally yellowing tea buds, and the yellow tea that is said today are two different concepts. In the Tang Dynasty, it was steamed into group tea, which is two different concepts from the yellow buds produced today. If we start with the variety, it has been around since the seventh century.
Second, it is stuffy yellow during the frying process. This has to start from the evolution of roasted green tea, around 1570 AD. Due to the practice of roasting green tea, it was found that after finishing or rolling, it was not dried in time or the degree of dryness was insufficient, and the leaf quality turned yellow, which produced a new understanding, and then practiced, and created yellow tea. For example, the yellow buds are dull and yellow after they are finished; Yellow soup is made after rolling and simmering for two or three hours or more; Huangda tea is stacked for more than 20 days after it is initially dried and turns yellow. These are all key links in the production of yellow tea.
Xu Cishu, a tea man and scholar in the Ming Dynasty, said an interesting passage in "Tea Shu": "The south of the Yangtze River is warm, so it is only suitable for tea, and the north and south of the river are called Lu'an...... Considering that the mountain is not good at manufacturing, it is fried and roasted with a bell, and it has been scorched before it comes out of the kettle. Bamboo giant bamboo is stored by heat, although there are green branches and purple bamboo shoots, it is yellowed, only for food, and it is a good fight. ”
He was criticizing the poor tea-making technology and turning green tea into yellow tea. However, coincidentally, tea people discovered the preparation method of yellow tea from green tea.
Therefore, the preparation method of yellow tea was developed from green tea before the 16th century. For example, the "Ming Huidian" said: "In the fifth year of Longqing (1571 AD), the purchase of tea in the horse matter, the purchase of really fine tea, regardless of black and yellow, a case of steaming, each grate weighs no more than seven catties." "This is Sichuan sun-dried green tea as color autoclaved as side tea. The heavy ones turn brown and black, and the light ones turn yellow tea.
Nonglu straightened out the development of tea, and his eyes lit up. Wu Qing also thinks that the crux of the problem has been found.
Tea, divided into six colors: yellow, white, black, green, green, and red, represents six tea qualities, and they symbolize the prosperity and prosperity of China's tea industry. These six colors of tea are also the six most famous tea types in China, and yellow tea accounts for one of them, which belongs to the second largest tea variety. It is delicate and beautiful in form, and rigorous and fine in production. It looks like a soaring, exquisite, as gorgeous as the morning glow, and like a light cloud around the silver moon, which makes people surprise as a divine object!
However, the release of this "sacred object" is a difficult and complicated process for the farmer.
In order to gain the favor of the "God of Tea", Nonglu is often fascinated. That night, Nonglu lay in bed, tossing and turning, unable to sleep.
Wu Qing asked him, what's wrong?
Nonglu said, "I was made a fuss by the tea."
Nong Lu was meditating, and suddenly remembered his master, why not invite him out of the mountain? He is a master of tea making, can press the tea into various shapes, and the tea can be interjected, there are three friends of plum, bamboo, pine, and cold, there are lion, tiger and leopard mountain beast statues, and fairies descending to earth, all lifelike, lovely. But this master has a strange temper, and his good skills will never be passed on.
Nonglu's mother once took him to meet this master, and also talked to Nonglu about an unpleasant past: Nonglu's father wanted to learn a few tricks from him, but the two fell out, so there was a pimple in his heart.
Back then, Nonglu's mother took him to meet his master, hoping to get his master's support one day.
Now that the master is old, he basically doesn't do hands-on work, and in recent years, his legs and feet are not very convenient to move, and he lives on the top of the Taiping at an altitude of more than 1,000 meters, so he rarely goes out of the mountain. People almost forgot about him, and he was happy to spend his days in paradise.
Nong Lu made up his mind and simply went to find the master. Nong Lu's mother thought it was feasible, and Wu Qing agreed.