Chapter 515: Donkey Rolling
Donkey rolling is one of the traditional snacks of old Beijing and Tianjin, and the finished product is yellow, white and red, and it is very good-looking. The www.biquge.info is named "donkey rolling" because of the soybean noodles sprinkled in the final production process, just like the bursts of loess raised when the wild donkeys in the suburbs of old Beijing are rolling happily. The raw materials of "donkey rolling" include rhubarb rice noodles, soybean noodles, clear sand, sugar, sesame oil, osmanthus, green and red silk and melon kernels.
Its production is divided into three processes: billet making, stuffing, and molding. The outer layer of the "donkey rolling" is sticky with bean noodles, golden brown, the bean filling is sweet, the entrance is soft, it has a unique flavor, the bean filling melts in the mouth, the sweetness enters the heart, the soybean noodles can not be chewed after entering the mouth, and the fine taste is the best, it is a traditional flavor snack suitable for all ages.
Its raw material is steamed with yellow rice noodles and water, and slightly more water is added to the noodles to make them softer. In addition, the soybeans are fried and rolled into flour. When making, the steamed yellow rice noodles are dipped in soybean flour and rolled into slices, then smeared with red bean paste filling, or you can roll them up with brown sugar, cut them into small pieces of about 100 grams, and sprinkle them with sugar. Glutinous rice flour is mixed with water to form a dough, boiled on the steamer, spread a damp cloth on the cage, put the mixed dough on the steaming cloth, cover the pot, and steam on high heat for 40 minutes. Soybean flour stir-fried. White sugar water and osmanthus are mixed into sugar osmanthus juice. Wrap the glutinous rice noodles in soybean flour, roll them into slices, smear them with bean paste, roll them into a cylindrical shape, cut them into small pieces, and pour them with sugar osmanthus juice.
When making, the filling is required to be evenly rolled, with clear layers, yellow appearance, characterized by fragrant, sweet, sticky, and a strong soybean flour fragrance. Bean flour cake uses soybean flour as its main raw material, so it is called bean flour cake. But why is it called "donkey rolling"? It seems to be a kind of image metaphor, after making it, put it in the soybean noodles and roll it, like a real donkey rolling in the suburbs, raising dust, hence the name.
This point has been questioned even by previous generations. In "Yandu Small Food Miscellaneous Song", it is said: "The brown sugar and water filling is skillfully arranged, and the yellow noodles are buried in a ball of beans." What is the group calling 'donkey rolling', the name is almost witty. He also said: "Soybeans are sticky rice, steamed, wrapped in brown sugar and water filling, rolled in fried bean noodles, and sold on a plate, and the name 'donkey rolling' is really incredible." ”
Bean noodle rolls, known as donkey rolling in Beijing, are one of the ancient varieties of Manchurian and Beijing snacks. In Manchuria, it is generally called bean flour rolls, and its raw material is steamed with yellow rice noodles and water, and slightly more water and softer when mixing noodles. Originated in Manchuria, originated in Chengde, and prevailed in Beijing. Because the children of the Eight Banners of the Qing Dynasty loved to eat sticky food, "donkey rolling" soon spread to Beijing and became a flavor snack in Beijing.
Since ancient times, the Chengde area has been rich in a kind of millet rice, according to the "Rehe Chronicles: Properties": "Millet is called yellow rice by the natives." This kind of millet rice, sticky, Chengde called yellow rice, can be stuffed rice, or milled into flour to make sticky bean buns, rice cakes and "donkey rolling". It was originally the tradition of the Manchu people to like to eat sticky food, because the hunting life of the Manchu people often goes out early and returns late, and they eat sticky food to withstand hunger. "Donkey rolling" is a popular snack that evolved from sticky food more than 200 years ago.
It can be seen that the name of "donkey rolling" has been conventional. Nowadays, many people only know the common name of Ya, but they don't know its proper name. Now all the snack bars are available all year round, but most of them no longer use yellow rice noodles, but use Jiang rice noodles instead, because of the soybean flour noodles rolled outside, its color is still yellow, it is a snack that the masses love very much.
The recipe for donkey rolling does not need to be so fine, as long as the softness and goodness of the dough are on the line, and the sugar is added more and less depending on the sweetness you like. The water should be added slowly, don't pour it all at once, in case you accidentally pour too much and it is too soft, don't worry, you can add some glutinous rice flour to it until you are satisfied. Soybean flour is cooked soybean flour, the soybean flour in the general vegetable field is raw, raw as long as it is fried slightly in the pot, the color changes to the original deepening point, the action should be fast, it is easy to burn.
Don't turn the fire too big, the dough is a little sticky when it is steamed and taken out, it is difficult to roll, as long as the dough is brushed with vegetable oil on the dough bowl, you can operate, and the knife should stick to cold water when cutting. The recipe is not clear, as long as it is, the bean paste is made by yourself, and the bean paste made by yourself is more pure. Appropriate amount of glutinous rice flour, appropriate amount of sugar, appropriate amount of water, appropriate amount of soybean flour, according to the number of people can increase or decrease the amount of glutinous rice flour.
And the origin of the legend of the donkey rolling is also interesting. It is said that once, the Empress Dowager Cixi was tired of eating the food in the palace and wanted to taste something new. So, the chef thought about it and decided to make a new dish with red bean paste wrapped in Jiang rice noodles. As soon as the new dish was ready, there was a eunuch named Little Donkey who came to the imperial kitchen, who knew that the little donkey accidentally touched the new dish that had just been made into the basin containing soybean noodles, which was very bad for the imperial chef, but at this time it was too late to redo it, no way, the chef had to bite the bullet and present this dish to the Empress Dowager Cixi.
As soon as the Empress Dowager Cixi ate this new thing, she thought it tasted good, so she asked the chef, "What is this thing called?" The chef thought about it, and it was all the eunuch named Little Donkey who was in trouble, so he said to the Empress Dowager Cixi: "This is called 'donkey rolling'." Since then, there has been the snack of "donkey rolling".
Legend has it that after Qianlong of the Qing Dynasty quelled the rebellion of Da, Xiao and Zhuo, he snatched the wife of a Uyghur leader in Xinjiang to the palace as his concubine, that is, Concubine Xiang.
After Concubine Xiang was robbed to Beijing, she didn't think about tea and dinner day and night, Qianlong was in a hurry, and sent a decree to the imperial dining room, saying: If anyone can make what Concubine Xiang likes to eat, he will not only be promoted, but also rewarded with a thousand taels of silver. This time, the imperial chefs showed their skills and used their housekeeping skills, delicacies from the mountains and seas, famous flavors, and made thousands of things, but Concubine Xiang didn't even look at it. Qianlong had no choice but to order the people of the White Hat Camp to make food for Concubine Xiang and send it to the palace.
The words are divided into two ends, since Concubine Xiang's husband was robbed into the palace, he also traveled from Xinjiang to Beijing, hid in the white hat camp, and tried every means to inquire about Concubine Xiang's whereabouts. When he heard that the emperor had ordered the people of the White Hat Camp to make the best food and send it to the palace for Concubine Xiang to eat, he felt that this was a good opportunity to get in touch. So he made a plate of his family's ancestral homemade dim sum Jiangmi dumplings, and when Concubine Xiang saw this Jiangmi dumplings, she would know that her husband was coming.
Jiang rice dumplings were sent to the palace, and the eunuch asked for the name of the food, so he told it to roll on a donkey. The palace maid rolled the donkey and brought it to Concubine Xiang, and when Concubine Xiang saw it, her eyes lit up, and she knew that her husband was coming, so she beat her spirits, picked one up, and took a bite gently. Qianlong was very happy when he heard that Concubine Xiang had eaten. It was ordered that Amat of the White Hat Camp be sent to the palace every day as a donkey roll. Since then, Amat has been rolling on donkeys every day and sent to the palace, and donkey rolling has become famous. Later, it spread to the people.