Chapter 451: Modern Lu Cuisine

At this time, Shandong's folk diet is fresh and elegant. At this time www.biquge.info the flavor snacks of Jinan are already unforgettable, such as wontons, cherry mallets, soup prison pills, five-color cakes, and food. In the Song Dynasty, Bianliang and Lin'an had the so-called "northern food", which refers to the northern cuisine represented by Lu cuisine. The Song people's "Tonghualu" also recorded the knife performance of the Shandong chef at the Taishan temple fair, cloud: "There is a group of people, so that a person is prostrated on the ground, with its knife as a knife, take a pound of meat, transport the knife with a thin wisp, remove the meat and wipe, the soldier is not injured in the slightest." "This kind of knife technique is the same as today's chef's performance of cutting shredded meat on thick cloth, but it is more exquisite. During the first year of Song Renzong's reign, the Confucian Mansion began to be officially established, and the most important branch of Shandong cuisine, Confucian cuisine, was born.

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After the fall of the Northern Song Dynasty, due to foreign invasion and long-term war in the north, the indigenous Han population in the Yellow River basin decreased sharply, and after the Song Dynasty moved the capital to Hangzhou, China's economic center moved south from the Yellow River basin to the Yangtze River basin, but this did not prevent the continuous improvement of the cooking level of Shandong cuisine. The great integration of ethnic groups made Shandong cuisine introduce a large number of Arab-Hui spices at this time, enriching the seasoning of Shandong cuisine; The Yuan, Ming and Qing dynasties had the advantage of being close to the capital, and the Lu cuisine chef became an important source of manpower for the court and government cooks, and the Lu cuisine cooking was also sublimated in the process of serving the court. Shandong has become a source of high-quality ingredients to the capital, and Shandong cuisine ingredients such as abalone, sea cucumber, shark fin, and mullet eggs have become the main ingredients commonly used in Beijing's court and government cuisine.

Taiwanese philosopher Zhang Qijun pointed out when expounding on the important role of Beijing in Shandong cuisine during the Yuan, Ming and Qing dynasties: "Since the Liaojin Dynasty, Beijing has been the imperial capital for more than 700 years, especially the three dynasties of the Yuan, Ming and Qing dynasties, which gathered the elites of the whole country in one place, and it is a prosperous era of talent gathering in Beijing. Whether it is a banquet for the nobles or an officialdom for entertainment, they must be served with the best dishes, and these people (especially the nobles) have really eaten and seen, and they have no real materials and exquisite cooking, how can they cope with it. Therefore, for 700 years, the best cooking of the flowing wind and aftertaste has been the culmination of the whole country. The cuisine, after being a big official and a learned person, not only has good technical taste, but also has superb style and excellent standard, which is beyond the reach of any other place in the country, and this kind of cuisine is made by many Shandong people in big restaurants. Its style is: generous and noble but not small family (such as Sichuan cuisine is small compared to it), dignified and not biased (such as Guangdong is a lot of strange dishes), it is generally high, rather than one or two dishes or biased taste to call, which can be said to be typical of Chinese cuisine. ”

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During the Ming and Qing dynasties, Shandong chefs not only dominated the imperial dining room of the imperial palace and monopolized the Beijing catering market, but also brought Shandong flavors to Beijing, Tianjin, Baishan and Heishui through immigrants such as Guandong, and became the representative of northern Chinese cuisine. Due to the radiation and propaganda ability of Beijing's catering market in the country, many dishes in Shandong have also been absorbed and borrowed by several southern cuisines (such as crispy meat, roast suckling pig, etc., and Mr. Meng Wentong, a Sichuan historian, has come to the conclusion that Shandong cuisine promotes the formation of modern Sichuan cuisine through the study of Sichuan recipes in the Qing Dynasty).

During the Kangxi period, high-yield crops in the New World such as sweet potatoes, potatoes, peanuts, and corn were introduced in Shandong in large quantities, and the staple food structure of Shandong underwent great changes. Because of the change of folk staple food, the folk meal style has also evolved, and the taste of the meal is saltier and more rustic, to adapt to the coarse grain staple food with a coarser taste.

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In modern times, Shandong's catering industry has been extremely prosperous, especially led by the Fushan Gang. In the twenties and thirties of the nineteenth century, there were thirty or forty well-known restaurants in Fushan County, Shandong, twenty or thirty small restaurants, and forty or fifty small food stalls. For example, the Jisheng Pavilion opened in the Daoguang period of the Qing Dynasty, which is famous for operating bird's nest, shark fin, and sea cucumber, with an average daily turnover of more than 100 yuan in the ocean, and in 1936, within one day of the Qingming Festival. The income is more than 1,750 yuan. Due to the well-managed Fukuyama people and the emergence of many famous chefs, they soon became the main force of the Jingshi catering industry. According to incomplete statistics, most of the famous restaurants in Beijing, such as "Eight Buildings" and "Eight Great Residences", were opened by Fushan people. The scale of this restaurant is staggering - not only does it have elegant halls and facilities, but it also has a stage for the wealthy and wealthy to celebrate their birthdays. The "Dongxing Building", which was once the first of the "Eight Buildings" in Beijing, had more than 200 employees at its peak. Another example is the "Tongheju", the first of the "Eight Great Residences" in Beijing, and Emperor Yuji of Japan all admired the dishes of Tongheju. There is also the famous Luan School in Hukou Village, Fushan County, nicknamed "Luan Pubao" to open the Fengzeyuan Restaurant, before the founding of the People's Republic of China, it was Cao Kun, Wu Peifu, Zhang Zuolin and other big warlords often visited, in the early days of the founding of the People's Republic of China, it also became a place for party and state leaders to entertain foreign heads of state and VIPs, and now, it is still famous all over the world for operating authentic Lu cuisine.

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Since the 80s of the 20th century, the state and the government regard the culinary art of Shandong cuisine as a precious national cultural heritage, and have adopted the policy of inheritance and development.

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Lu cuisine pays attention to the excellent texture of raw materials, uses salt to enhance freshness, uses soup to strengthen freshness, and seasoning emphasizes salty and fresh purity, highlighting the original taste. Green onion is a special product of Shandong, most dishes should use green onions, ginger and garlic to enhance the flavor and flavor, stir-fry, boil, burst, grill, burn and other methods should use green onions, especially the dishes of green onion roast, it is better to have a strong onion fragrance, such as green onion roasted sea cucumber, green onion roasted hoof tendon; Feeding stuffing, bursting pot, and cold salad are indispensable for onions, ginger and garlic. The amount of seafood is more and the quality is high, the peculiar smell is lighter, the fresh ones pay attention to the original taste, shrimp, crab, shellfish, clams, and more ginger vinegar are used to accompany the food; Bird's nest, shark fin, sea cucumber, dried abalone, fish skin, fish bones and other high-grade raw materials, high quality and low taste, must be used to enhance freshness with broth.

The prominent cooking methods of Shandong cuisine are fried, grilled, and shredded, especially fried and grilled vegetarian are praised by the world. Explosion, divided into oil explosion, sauce explosion, coriander explosion, green onion explosion, soup explosion, water explosion, fire, etc., "the way of cooking, such as taking treasure in the fire." If you don't do it, you will be born, and if you are a little older, you will be old, and you will be in Russia, and if you miss it, you will be lost." The technique of exploding fully reflects the kung fu of Lu cuisine in using fire. Therefore, the world calls it "food in China, fire in Shandong".

Lu cuisine takes soup as the source of freshness, pays attention to the preparation of "clear soup" and "milk soup", which is clear and distinct, and takes its freshness. The preparation method of clear soup has been recorded as early as in "Qi Min Yaoshu". There are many dishes made with "clear soup" and "milk soup", and the famous dishes include "clear soup family portrait", "hibiscus yellow pipe", "milk soup pu cai", "milk soup eight treasure cloth bag chicken", "soup fried double crispy", etc., which are mostly listed as the delicacies of high-end banquets.