Chapter 450: Lu Caiji

In the "Treatise on Heng and Repatriation", there is the following record: "The seasoning of Diya is also water, and the acid is water, and the light is salt. Pen? Interesting? Pavilion wWw. biquge。 info

The phase of water and fire is easy, so the food is not salty...... This is still sour and salty, and the water is light and irritable. The Di Ya mentioned in the article was Yi Ya, the favorite minister of Qi Huan at that time, and he was the most famous chef at that time. It can be seen that the Qilu chefs in the Spring and Autumn Period were not only good at adjusting the taste with salt, but also good at adjusting the saltiness of the meal by changing it with water and fire, and at the same time understood the truth that adding salt will make it more sour.

For example, the historian Qian Mu pointed out that "if you take the representative of Chinese orthodox culture, such as Greece in the West, then in China you must first push Shandong people", and diet is no exception, Confucianism originated in Shandong has not only shaped the character of Chinese for more than 2,000 years, but also shaped Chinese's concept of food. Confucianism attaches great importance to food, and there is even a saying that "civilization begins with food". Confucius, the founder of Confucianism, was not only a great thinker and educator, but also a great gourmet. In the Analects of the Township Party, Confucius systematically and comprehensively expounded his views on food hygiene, health preservation, fire, knife work, seasoning, and etiquette. As Zhang Dai said in the preface to the collection of gluttony: "In the medieval world, Confucius was pushed by the taste, and he did not get tired of eating fine, and he did not get tired of being fine." The word 'fine' has been eaten and slighted. As for cooked food, it will not be eaten; Vegetarian diets should not be eaten from time to time. The four words, the food meridian, that is, the health theory". Confucius's concept of food has laid the core aesthetic concept of Chinese food for more than 2,000 years, and is an important cultural treasure in China.

……

The book "Book of Rites" has made a special description of meals, food, drinks, stews, preserved dishes, soups, treasures, etc., from raw material matching, cooking methods to seasoning requirements. The requirements for seasoning are "all harmonious, more sour in spring, more bitter in summer, more bitter in autumn, more salty in winter, and smoother and sweet". The Book of Rites has basically outlined various cooking methods and requirements such as cooking, boiling, roasting, stewing, and cannon.

It can be seen that many of the earliest historical materials on culinary theory in China came from Shandong, and they were widely spread in the land of Qilu and became accustomed to each other, thus laying the foundation of Shandong cuisine.

……

Judging from the unearthed Han portrait stones, there are about 40 images containing kitchen content in the country, and more than 20 have been unearthed in Shandong, ranking first in the provinces, which shows the status of Shandong cuisine in Chinese cuisine in the Han Dynasty. In particular, the kitchen portrait stone unearthed from the Liangtai in front of Zhucheng at the southern tip of the Jiaodong Peninsula is a portrait stone in a tomb of the Han Dynasty, and it is a very fine "kitchen map" painted on it. The stone is 1.52 meters high and 0.76 meters wide. The whole map is composed of semi-finished food racks, slaughtering, cooking, brewing and other parts. On the semi-finished shelves at the upper end, turtles, fish, rabbits, pigs, etc. are hung. On the right is a picture of slaughtering animals, depicting activities such as handling fish, slaughtering sheep, slaughtering cattle, slaughtering pigs, killing dogs, slaughtering chickens and ducks, etc. In the soup and cooking part, there are scenes such as drawing water, burning fire, chopping wood, mixing noodles, steaming, and barbecue. In addition, there are many chickens, ducks, geese, dogs and other animals on the screen. From the above portrait stone of the Han Tomb, we can clearly see that as early as the Qin and Han dynasties, on today's Jiaodong Peninsula, cooking raw materials have been very abundant, or Qilu chefs have been quite extensive. It is particularly noteworthy that the kitchen staff have a strict division of labor from the selection of raw materials, slaughtering, washing, steaming, barbecue and other work processes, each performing its own duties in an orderly manner. In addition, it is more noteworthy that at the bottom of the picture, a man is depicted sitting on the ground, a woman holding a cooking spoon and beating him, and a person holding a stick to beat him, which is likely to reflect the "enforcement of kitchen discipline" at that time. In the past, it was common for the master in the kitchen to reprimand his apprentices, and even to add sticks to each other. This also shows that there was strict discipline in the kitchen at that time. The most noteworthy thing is that almost all of the more than 40 people on the picture are wearing hats of the same shape, which shows that there were also uniform regulations on the clothing of chefs on a certain occasion at that time. Also, in the Shandong Provincial Museum, there are two lifelike Han Dynasty kitchen figurines on display. The 0.34-meter-tall chef on the left is a chef who is killing fish, holding a sharp knife in his hand, and the 0.29-meter-tall chef on the right is a chef who is closing noodles and seems to be very skillful. From the above two cultural relics, it can be fully seen that in the Qin and Han dynasties, aquatic products have occupied an important position in the dishes of Shandong, which is also one of the characteristics of today's Shandong cuisine.

……

From the book "Qi Min Yaoshu" written by Jia Sixian, it can be seen that the cooking technology of Shandong has been greatly developed during the Northern and Southern Dynasties. Jia Sixian, a native of Yidu, Shandong, served as the Taishou of Gaoyang County (now in Zibo, Shandong) in the Northern Wei Dynasty (368-551 AD), and paid attention to the investigation and study and summary of agricultural production and processing technologies for agricultural, sideline, livestock, and aquatic products throughout his life, and wrote the book "Qi Min Yao Shu". This book is the earliest, most systematic and most complete book of outstanding agricultural and regional processing experience in agriculture and various agricultural and sideline products in China and even in the world. Among them, he wrote as many as 26 articles on food processing alone, and introduced more than 100 kinds of processed varieties. Various food processing techniques, such as stuffing, frying, burning, roasting, boiling, steaming, pickling, stewing, and dregs, are introduced. In terms of condiments, salt, soy sauce, sauce, vinegar, sauce, wine, honey, pepper, etc. are introduced. It is worth noting that Jia Siqian also introduced the cooking methods of famous dishes such as "roasted pork" (roasted suckling pig) and "fried fish with honey". This shows that the cooking skills in Shandong at that time were already very comprehensive, and these techniques have been fully inherited from today's Shandong cuisine.

……

The Tang and Song dynasties were the pinnacle of the development of ancient Chinese civilization in China, and the cooking techniques of Shandong cuisine reached a very high level.

Duan Chengshi, a native of Linzi in the Tang Dynasty, recorded the high level of cooking of Lu cuisine in "Youyang Miscellaneous": "Nothing is unbearable, only in the heat, and the five flavors are good." The reason why Duan Chengshi was able to record so much cooking information in a miscellaneous book is related to the fact that he was born in a family of gastronomy. Duan Chengshi's father, Duan Wenchang, was a generation of ministers of the Tang Dynasty and was quite delicious. The Tang Dynasty Qilu cooking knife technology can be said to be the peak, which is reflected in the historical materials and poems left behind in the Tang and Song dynasties. "Youyang Miscellaneous" recorded: "Jinshi Duan Shuo tasted the filial piety of the south, good at cutting the hair, thin silk, light can be blown, the sound of the knife is fast, if the rhythm is in tune, because of the guest skills." "The movement of the person holding the knife is so skillful and light, and the shredded meat can be blown by the breeze, which shows the thinness of the shredded meat and the essence of the knife skill.