Chapter 529: Honey Twist
In December 1997, the steamed dumplings made by Beijing Di'anmen Snack Bar were awarded the title of the first National Chinese Famous Snack by the China Cuisine Association. Pen & Fun & Pavilion www.biquge.info Xuanwu District Caishikou Nanlai Shun Restaurant, is a time-honored brand known for operating Beijing-style snacks, steaming, frying, boiling all kinds of snacks here are beautiful, just say that the steamed twist class, there are more than a dozen kinds, the hemp flower is enough to be a foot and a half long, the small honey twist can be eaten in one or two bites, and the jujube kernel-shaped, fan-shaped steamed twist, small and small, cute, no wonder a guest who came to Nanlai Shun Restaurant for the first time to eat snacks said: "Why eat twist flowers and go to Tianjin again!" ”。
According to the literature, Di'anmen has played an important role in history. Because it is the north gate of the imperial city, most of the emperors have to go out of Di'anmen when they go north to inspect, and they also go out of Di'anmen when they worship the gods of the altar of the earth. In the 26th year of Guangxu (1900), when the Eight-Nation Coalition invaded Beijing, the invading army suffered stubborn resistance from the Qing army in Di'anmen. At the critical juncture, the Empress Dowager Cixi took the Guangxu Emperor to escape from the Forbidden City in a hurry, out of the north gate of the imperial city Di'anmen, and then out of the inner city of Deshengmen, to avoid Xi'an.
In 1924, when General Feng Yuxiang drove Pu Yi out of the palace, the last emperor also walked from Di'anmen to the regent palace of his birthplace. In the early years, there were many yamen serving the royal family in Di'anmen, such as the Shangyi Supervisor, the Si Shi Jian Supervisor, the Si Ceremony Supervisor, the Wine and Vinegar Bureau, the Weaving and Dyeing Bureau, the Needlework Bureau, the Scarf and Hat Bureau, the Gunpowder Bureau, the Siyuan Bureau, as well as the Bell and Drum Division, the Supply Warehouse, the Wax Warehouse, the Curtain Warehouse, the Armory, the Leather Room, the Paper Room, and the Anle Hall.
said that Tianjin twist is unique, that is indeed the center of its uniqueness. It is said that consumer manufacturers and stores, large and small, are innumerable, and the most famous one has to be said to be Gui Fayuan, which is now Gui Fayuan Twist Group Corporation, which is one of the three unique foods in Tianjin. Next is the Hebei District Wang Ji scissors strand twist, named because its twist shape resembles a pair of scissors. There are also small twist of custard milk in Hedong District Shixiang Zhai, crispy, fragrant, crispy, sweet and small, nutritious, and a variety of new twist flowers, etc., there are consumer manufacturers in all districts and counties, and in the food stores in the streets and alleys of the city, pastry shops, non-staple food stores, snack bars, major supermarkets food operation areas and stations, docks, airports all over the operation of Tianjin Twist. In particular, the Katsura Fayuan (18th Street) twist.
Honey twist is a common famous snack in Beijing, also known as sugar ears, because it looks like a human ear after it is formed. There is a poem in the past that said: "The ears are worthy of food? often accompanied by his partner Honey Twist, Lao Sheng asked who was good, and pointed to a certain two bars in front of him. And the note said: "Sugar ear honey twist flower, for the halal people to make food, its raw materials are no more than sugar, flour and small sugar, etc., small sugar is commonly known as the rare."
Tianjin twist has long been salted by the gifts of Chinese people to donate to relatives and friends, year after year, month and day, so enduring, this is the pride of Tianjin people. More than 70 years ago, the twist shops in Tianjin operated a thousand twist flowers. With two or three white strips twisted together without pinching the head is called "rope head", two white strips and one hemp strip are twisted together called "Huali Tiger", and two or three hemp strips are twisted into a "hemp shaft". At that time, although the fried twist flowers were crispy and fragrant, they were hard. In 1937, the two brothers Fan Guilin and Fan Guicai each opened a twist shop. Fan Guilin opened a restaurant named "Gui Fayuan". Fan Guicai opened a store named "Gui Fa Cheng".
Due to the competition between them, the progress of twist quality has been promoted. Fan Guilin was determined to transform, and after repeated explorations, he finally developed a new type of stuffed and semi-leavened noodles. The alkali is increased or decreased with the season and climate change, so that the fried twist insists on stable quality all year round. After the public-private partnership in 1956, consumer workers improved the specifications of the species. According to the needs of the public, it is made into 50 grams, 100 grams, 250 grams, 500 grams, 1000 grams of different weights, different sizes of a variety of specifications of twist.
This kind of mixed twist with common flavor filling, the taste is oily, crispy and sweet, the appearance is beautiful, and it lasts for a long time, so it is especially popular with the public. Especially in recent years, the scope of consumption has expanded and the variety has increased, so that this characteristic food has embarked on a broader development path. There are not only six or seven kinds of Gui Fayuan twist, but also complete specifications, to be large and large, to be small and small, the large 25 kilograms, 5 kilograms, the small 50g, 100g.
Hemp flowers have been used as exhibits to participate in Tianjin Food Expo and "Tianfair" and other activities, weighing up to ten kilograms, the bigger the twist, the more difficult to operate, but take out a unique job, no matter how big the twist, once fried must be crispy twist on the ground must be all broken, in order to show its quality. The twist flower of Gui is "crispy and sweet, and it will not be continuous for a long time", which is a portrayal of its own quality; It is said that it is "unique" is called crispy and not gen, the more you chew, the more fragrant it is, the sweetness is moderate, it has the fragrance of Fujian ginger, and it is fried thoroughly, there is no moisture, it can be put for at least three months, and the twist flower in autumn can survive the winter, without preservatives. "Wang Ji" scissors strand twist, also known as "Wang Ji" steamed twist and Gui Fayuan assorted twist are both famous products with characteristic flavor in Tianjin. In the mid-50s, the scissors shape of the twist was developed, and from time to time to improve and progress, so that it is quite distinctive, and has been repeatedly rated as the city's best and the best products.
Steamed dumplings are the traditional food of the Hui people for hospitality, gifts, and festivals. As early as the Ming Dynasty, the Hui people in Beijing began to eat fried steamed dumplings, and after that, Gansu, Ningxia, Yunnan and other provinces inhabited by the Hui people all had the custom of eating steamed dumplings.
When Hui relatives and friends worship the festival, they should give gifts with steamed dumplings, and when guests come to the house, they should serve steamed dumplings and gaiwan tea to entertain them, and chat while eating and drinking. The steamed dumplings of the Hui nationality are evenly thin, burnt and crispy, the color is gorgeous, the appearance is beautiful, the workmanship is quite exquisite, the appropriate amount of alum, alkali and salt solution should be put into the flour, and the water boiled by the raw materials such as brown sugar, honey, pepper, green onion skin and so on, then add eggs and sesame oil and noodles, and then repeat the kneading, rub into thick strips and put them in the basin to wake up for a while. When the oil pan is hot, put the four fingers of the left hand together, wrap the noodles around seven balls, quietly stretch them out, and put them on the chopsticks to get on and off the pot.
When the Hui people in Ningxia, Gansu, Qinghai and other places make steamed dumplings, they knead the noodles into an even long rope shape, fold the opposite end into two back and forth into eight strands, pinch the two ends together with their hands, and then put them into the oil pot and fry them. The Hui dumplings look yellow and fresh, smell fragrant, and taste crispy and sweet, which can be described as a delicious delicacy. In 1982, when the five northwestern provinces were in a cooking competition, the steamed dumplings of the Ningxia Hui nationality were bright and dazzling in color and fragrant, which shocked Xi'an.
The twist of the Hui nationality is also very precise and diverse, there are two types of honey twist and light crisp twist, and the crisp twist can be divided into three twists, rope head twist, hemp flower, fruit twist, sesame twist, hibiscus twist and so on. The raw materials of these twist flowers are slightly different, but the kneading methods are diverse, and the color and flavor are delicious.
The Hui people also use the same raw materials to make puff pastry cocoons, crispy flowers, as well as various flowers, oil rings and so on. Crispy and sweet in the mouth. In the past, the steamed dumplings and twist halls opened by the Hui people were in short supply, and were deeply welcomed and praised by the fraternal nationalities.