Chapter 80: Filigree Inlay (1)
Among the recent hit TV series, the dominant one is still the big-scale production "The Legend of Ruyi", as the plot gradually gets better, the score is gradually getting started, and the reputation is getting better and better. Two days ago, the whole drama finally ushered in the climax - after Ruyi was sealed.
Not to mention how magnificent the whole canonization scene is, just looking at Ruyi's court dress is fine enough, from head to toe, all aspects, basically the image of the queen of the Qing Dynasty is perfectly restored.
One ear and three pincers, collar drape, collar covenant, morning beads, gold covenant, arrow sleeves...... In the play, all the jewelry that can be restored is basically restored, no wonder the etiquette director Zhang Xiaolong said: "No one can restore history, we try to be closest to it under the condition of respecting history, which is a rigorous attitude of a creator."
Among the "equipment" after the seal, the most attractive is the crown worn by Ruyi, not only the winter and summer crowns are different, but also the style on the back is also very particular, which shows the "five elements and two on" regulations that only the queen mother and queen of the Qing Dynasty can enjoy.
There are three layers on the top of the crown, each layer is inlaid with a large eastern pearl, the other small ones are pearls, in addition to inlaid with opal, etc., the golden phoenix on the crown is not an ordinary iron piece, but the use of the famous filigree inlay process.
Such a sophisticated production is worthy of a good drama with a conscience, just a prop for the crown uses the top technology filigree inlay, which is enough to see the sincerity of the props group, and even the details can stand up to scrutiny, and I can see that the funds are burning.
The canonization of the queen was a very important ceremony in the Qing Dynasty, such a grand occasion, the dress is bound to be very exquisite, all the court ornaments, only the filigree inlay can appear on the crown, and its status at that time is not unrelated.
The predecessor of filigree inlay was the gold and silver mistake of the Warring States period and the gold and silver flat of the Tang Dynasty, and it was upgraded to filigree inlay in the Ming and Qing dynasties. The Ministry of Internal Affairs of the Qing Palace also set up a special "filigree manufacturing office", which is responsible for serving the nobles of the Eight Banners, however, ordinary royal families can not use it, usually only the emperor and the ladies with rank can occupy its beauty, and the status is so high, it is no wonder that Ruyi wore it at the canonization ceremony.
The process of filigree inlay is extremely complex, and it is good at weaving and stacking techniques, often with the process of dotting cui, showing the effect of splendor, so later, people call it and ivory carving, cloisonne, Beijing embroidery and other crafts as "Yanjing Eight Uniques", and now only Beijing filigree inlay concentrates on the characteristics of China's court filigree inlay technology.
The shape of filigree inlay includes flowers and plants, phoenixes, dragons and phoenixes, flying wings, auspicious patterns, words, etc., all of which are expressed through magnificent, exquisite and beautiful techniques. It can be said that the art of filigree inlay is a luxury in itself, a craft that can only be appreciated and understood by the upper class.
As early as 2008, filigree inlay was included in the national list of intangible cultural heritage. Because from ancient times to the present, craftsmen who can master this craft are very rare, and they often spend a lifetime of time and effort to study before they can achieve something. If you want to become a master from an apprentice, it will take ten or eight years to say the least, and if you want to become a filigree inlay master, it depends more on inheritance and talent.
As the name suggests, the filigree inlay process can be divided into two major techniques: "filigree" and "inlay", the filigree is to knead all kinds of precious metal wires into filaments and bend them into the desired shape; Inlay is to set all kinds of rare jewelry on gold and silver filigree.
"Filigree for bone, inlay for decoration", a mature work has to go through more than a dozen complex processes, as few months as many as half a year to be completed, and it is difficult for a craftsman to do it alone without decades of experience.
Filigree is also called wire drawing, and gold, silver, copper and other metals are pulled into filaments of uniform thickness by pinching, filling, accumulating, welding, weaving, stacking, etc., and then using this filament to make delicate shapes.
A silver wire has to be drawn dozens of times before it can become a "qualified" plain wire, and the silk is woven together to make a filament before it can be used, and then there are complex and cumbersome techniques such as cloisonné, filament, and welding.
Filigree: Use tweezers to pinch the filigree or plain silk into various patterns
Filamenting: Filling the flattened single-strand filament into the pinched pattern profile
Welding: Different metals have different melting points, so the heat of welding should also be paid attention to, as everything will be burned out in vain.
Every process of filigree inlay is very cumbersome and complicated, so its production cycle is very long. The inlay process is mainly attached to the filigree process, so the foundation is not good, and it is difficult to make progress in the future.
The representative work of filigree skills is the golden silk dragon wing crown of the Wanli Emperor of the Ming Dynasty, the whole hat body is made of 518 gold wires with a diameter of 0.2 mm, the pattern is uniform, sparse and consistent, no joints, no broken wires, it is exquisitely conceived, the selection of precious materials is not only the favorite thing of the Wanli Emperor during his lifetime, but also the national treasure of today.
If the filigree is a dragon, then the inlay is the finishing touch, after all, if there is no jewelry embellishment, no matter how delicate the filigree is, it will look a little simple.
The most common setting technique is called bezel setting. The precious metal must be pressed into the right size, and there is no quantitative standard in this process, and it is entirely dependent on the experience and craftsmanship of the master. The pressed metal is then cut into "bowl edges" to be embedded in the jewelry.
There is also a setting method called "shovel nails", which is a technique created to accommodate the complex shape of jewelry. First of all, the craftsman should choose the right chisel according to the size of the jewelry, and if you choose the wrong one, you will lose the whole plate. After the grooves are made, they are polished and repaired, and finally embedded in the jewelry.
It is precisely because of the uncertainty of pure craftsmanship that this craft has slowly become an art, and although its raw material is the most common gold and silver jewelry, its finished value is much higher than that of gold and silver jewelry. The craftsmanship contained in it cannot be measured by value.
Filigree inlay is a "luxury craft" that truly belongs to our Chinese, its technique is exquisite, beautiful, is a timeless cultural treasure, condensed thousands of years of craftsmanship essence, worthy of eternal inheritance.
Filigree inlay production technique is one of the traditional Chinese handicraft skills, that is, gold, silver, copper into silk, using various techniques to make a variety of jewelry, utensils and other ornaments.
Silk, in the Shang Dynasty bronze casting era has appeared concave and convex "silk" ornamentation. In the Han Dynasty, the formed gold silk weaving (Han Dynasty "golden thread jade clothes") appeared, and there are very detailed, delicate and complete filigree inlay works.
Inlay, in the Spring and Autumn Period and the Warring States Period, glazed inlay and jade inlay have appeared, to the Northern Qi has been quite exquisite and perfect. The ornaments are shining with golden light, colorful silk inlays, and exquisite and unique. The filigree inlay process was a highly developed stage in the Tang Dynasty, and the craftsmanship has reached a considerable level of proficiency, which can be described as superb. In the Qing Dynasty, the process was further improved and developed.
Dachang filigree inlay is a traditional Chinese pure handicraft product, the process is extremely complex, need to go through design, blanking, tire making, drawing, marking, wire, sticky wire, welding wire, squeezing, washing, stone selection, sticking, combination, gold plating, silver plating and other processes.
Because it is handmade and the quality is high-grade, each process must be operated by a special person, and the craftsman checks it, and a product takes a lot of energy and time to complete.
Dachang filigree inlay is realistic, the pattern is complex, the production is excellent, and the technical content is extremely high. It integrates multi-dynasty and multi-ethnic religious, cultural, aesthetic and other cultural factors, forming a unique traditional handicraft and modeling characteristics, which is unique in the Chinese arts and crafts industry and has extremely high aesthetic value.
Known as one of the "Eight Uniques of Yanjing", the filigree inlay technique is an ancient Chinese imperial jewelry inlay technique, which is on the verge of being lost. The well-known jewelry company Chao Hongji and the public welfare organization "Rare Action" launched a project of "Saving Intangible Cultural Heritage Handicrafts - Filigree Craft" at the Shantou Chaohongji Filigree Museum, and the filigree craft seminar was held at the same time.
Recently, the national intangible cultural heritage - filigree inlaid gold slip "The Art of War" was unveiled in Beijing. The work is handmade from 11,800.5 grams of gold, and 45 gold slips are engraved with all the contents of the "Thirty-six Strategies" in ancient li, showing the breadth and profundity of China's military cultural heritage.
A sample of a filigree inlaid gold bracelet that was popular in Beijing more than 20 years ago was unveiled yesterday in the hands of an intangible cultural heritage person in Dongcheng District, and Ma Xiufeng, a 58-year-old "filigree inlay" non-genetic person, was the designer and maker of this bracelet that year. "This bracelet looks a bit clumsy now, but it was 'trend-setting' in the eighties and nineties." Ma Xiufeng recalled.
According to Fang Wei, there are many types of gold and silver fine work, which is more exquisite, taking filigree inlay as an example, the filigree process is also known as fine gold technology, which is to draw gold, silver, copper, etc. into filaments, and then rely on the pile, base, weaving, weaving, pinching, filling, saving, welding and other eight processes, the filaments into jewelry or works of art.
In this process, each craft is subdivided into a kaleidoscopic variety of shapes, and the final pattern varies according to the designer's style. Inlay is the formation of gold and silver flakes into vessels or carved patterns, in which gemstones are inlaid.
Their inspiration could be a childhood memory, or a photograph, or even a cartoon from their childhood. A designer combined the words "father" and "mountain" into a necklace to interpret the deep affection of "father's love is like a mountain"; Another author created a pendant with a prototype of hopscotch, nostalgic for a wonderful childhood.
"Filigree inlay" can be called the most delicate of metalwork. The filigree is made of gold, silver and copper as raw materials, and techniques such as pinching, filling, saving, welding, weaving and stacking are adopted; Inlay with frustration, whenium, hammering, stuffing, beating, collapse, squeezing, inlay and other techniques to make the metal sheet into a support and claw-shaped groove, and then inlaid with pearls, gemstones.
This process, on the one hand, makes the three-dimensional shape of the jewelry more vivid with the finishing of raw materials, and on the other hand, it also makes the gold and silver itself soft and light, and the light is restrained, which is more suitable for setting off the warmth of jade and the brightness of gemstones in the inlay process. Due to its intricacy and the fact that it is on the verge of being lost, it is extremely rare for heritage jewelry to be set with filigree inlays on the market.
It is a combination of the two production techniques of "filigree" and "inlay". The filigree is made of gold, silver and copper as raw materials, and traditional techniques such as pinching, filling, saving, welding, weaving and stacking are adopted; Inlaid with frustration, mosque, hammering, stuffing, beating, collapse, squeezing, inlay and other techniques, the metal sheet is made into a support and claw-shaped groove, and then inlaid with pearls and gemstones. The so-called "filigree ten thousand strands weave a golden crown, and the wonderful hand is inlaid with Qiankun", which is a high summary of this exquisite craft.
Filigree inlay production technique is also known as "fine gold craft", is the traditional Chinese court art, is one of the "Yanjing Eight Uniques", its process is complex and cumbersome, the big process is divided into pinching, filling, saving, welding, stacking, base, weaving, weaving 8 kinds of skills. In 2008, the filigree inlay production technique was officially included in the national intangible cultural heritage list.
Speaking of filigree, I have to mention Yao Yingchun, the national inheritor of filigree craftsmanship, he was a craftsman in Beijing filigree inlay factory, and began to engage in filigree inlay at the age of 17, and he is still 72 years old in the "filigree inlay studio" of Chaohongji filigree museum to teach apprentices to train inheritors of filigree craftsmanship.
Filigree inlay requires a high level of manual skill and experience, and the time to train a skilled master can range from a dozen years to decades, so many young apprentices are discouraged and the inheritance of skills is severely tested. There are more than 30 apprentices under Yao Yingchun.
"Post-90s" apprentice Lv Zhenwei has been studying in the filigree inlay studio for nearly 5 years, "now few young people can calm down to do this delicate work of filigree", Lv Zhenwei said, "I was shocked by its beauty as soon as I came into contact with filigree, and I liked it very much at first sight."
Lv Zhenwei has been able to complete relatively small accessories independently, and most of the time he is still learning from the master, "It is estimated that it will take 5 years to complete a finished product alone, and there are too many things to learn from Master Yao Yingchun."
Filigree inlay production technique is one of the traditional Chinese handicraft skills, that is, gold, silver, copper into silk, using various techniques to make a variety of jewelry, utensils and other ornaments. On June 7, 2008, the filigree inlay production technique was approved by the State Council to be included in the second batch of national intangible cultural heritage list.
Filigree inlay, also known as fine gold craft, is a traditional Chinese handicraft that has been inherited for a long time, and was mainly used for the production of royal jewelry in ancient times.
Filigree inlay, also known as fine gold craft, is a traditional Chinese handicraft that has been inherited for a long time, and was mainly used for the production of royal jewelry in ancient times. It is a combination of the two production techniques of "filigree" and "inlay".
The filigree is made of gold, silver and copper as raw materials, and traditional techniques such as pinching, filling, saving, welding, weaving and stacking are adopted. Inlaid with frustration, mosque, hammering, stuffing, beating, collapse, squeezing, inlay and other techniques, the metal sheet is made into a support and claw-shaped groove, and then inlaid with pearls and gemstones.
The crown body is as thin as light yarn, the gap is even, and the upper end of the golden crown has a dragon play bead pattern, and the shape is exquisite. The Golden Wing Crown is composed of three parts: the front house, the back mountain and the wings, which are woven with 518, 334 and more than 70 gold wires with a diameter of 0.2mm.
The golden crown is light and transparent as a whole, the gold wire is woven evenly and decently, there is no obvious knot, the two golden dragons are piled up by gold filigree, attached to the back mountain, vivid and mighty, reflecting the advanced welding technology of the maker at that time, which can be called the representative work of filigree technology.
Filigree inlay technology has a prototype as early as the Spring and Autumn Period, the gold and silver mistakes of the Warring States Period, the gold and silver flat off of the Tang Dynasty is its predecessor, and it is now in the Tang Dynasty of the Chinese History Museum in Beijing.
The Yuan, Ming and Qing dynasties formed the largest filigree production center in Beijing. The Ming Dynasty reached a high level of art, and the Qing Dynasty had a greater development, and famous products continued to emerge, many of which became court tributes.
Since the Tang and Song dynasties, filigree techniques have been more widely used in women's hair bun styles and jewelry.
The filigree inlay process is good at weaving and stacking techniques, and it is also commonly used to point the emerald process to achieve a brilliant effect. The extensive use of gemstones and the improvement of the gem setting process are the most important contributions of filigree inlay jewelry to traditional Chinese jewelry in the Ming Dynasty, which has changed the tradition of heavy ornamentation and light gemstones in traditional Chinese jewelry. Take a look at the latest chapters of "Dream Claw Book House in the Great Era" and read it for free for the first time.