Qumagu Battlefield
Quma Ancient Battlefield, also known as the Ancient Great Wall of Riwu, is located in Dingjie County, Shigatse Region, eight kilometers away from Riwu Town, and is entrenched at the entrance of Turonggou in the Sachen Highway Section. The Quma Ancient Battlefield has the only ancient Great Wall in Tibet. There is no detailed information about the ancient Great Wall. There is not even a record of the specific construction time and background of the Great Wall of the ancient battlefield. This also adds to the mystery of the ancient Great Wall and people's curiosity.
At noon, our group arrived at the ranch facing the Qumagu battlefield. Through Nadangqu, you can see the ancient Great Wall on a hillside in the Grand Canyon, extending with the ups and downs of the mountain until it reaches the top of the highest mountain on the left. Like a dragon lying on a barren mountain.
On the side of the highway, there is a huge reminder sign that reads Qumagu Battlefield. We asked the shepherd of the ranch, what is the legend of Qumagu Zhanyang? The shepherd only told us that this place was called Quma, and he didn't know anything else, he didn't even know why this place was called Quma Ancient Battlefield, and he had never heard the old people say that there had been a war here. The Qumagu Great Wall is not developed, no one takes care of it, there is no need to buy tickets, everything is in a pristine state. This state of affairs gives us a sense of surprise.
We carefully crossed the thawing Nadangqu, climbed a steep hill, and climbed a knee-deep slope to reach the edge of the Qumagu Great Wall.
The Quma Ancient Great Wall consists of two parts, one is the city wall and the other is the square city. Fangcheng is the center of the entire ancient Great Wall, from Fangcheng to the downstream of Nadangqu there is a city wall, and the other wall extends from Fangcheng to the top of the back mountain. On the hills at both ends of the Great Wall, there is a huge beacon tower.
The form of the Quma Ancient Great Wall is quite similar to that of the Ming Great Wall, but the architectural style and building materials are significantly different from the Ming Great Wall. It can be seen from the existing wall of the ancient Great Wall that there is no female wall on the ancient Great Wall of Quma, and a solid parapet wall is used. The Great Wall of the Ming Dynasty is made of square bricks as the basic material, and the Quma Ancient Great Wall is made of blocks of stone and sheet stones, which has typical Tibetan architectural characteristics. We were under a collapsed enemy building, and we accidentally found that although the stones built on the long city were wrapped in thick moss, it could be clearly seen from the gaps in the joints that most of them were purple-red quartz stones. Try to see how magnificent and gorgeous this purple-red Great Wall should be in the verdant mountains or the snow-capped mountains at the beginning of its construction.
On both sides of the Quma Ancient Great Wall, there are strange peaks and mountains that pierce into the clouds, with the back against Nadangqu, and at the foot of the front and back slopes, there is a wide grassland. The Great Wall connects the two ends of the unreachable danger, and the horizontal wall is on the high slope bordering the two grasslands, guarding the danger of Quma, which is indeed an impassable national gate.
On the other side of the mountain pass opposite the Qumagu Great Wall is the territory of present-day Nepal.
The Quma Ancient Great Wall is about three kilometers long, and the city wall stretches from west to northeast from the foot of Quma Mountain. The width of the castle wall is about three meters, and the highest existing height is about four meters. There are three enemy towers on the west side of the city wall, and five enemy towers on the northeast side, and the space area in the enemy tower is about ten square meters. The top of the wall is covered with a thick layer of turf, which makes the top of the wall very smooth. It is a turf unique to the plateau and has a strong vitality. Over time, the turf and the walls have grown into one. Trenches were dug along the southern side of the entire wall. It's just that it's old and there is no basic maintenance, and the entire Qumagu Great Wall has collapsed very badly. Today's Guma Ancient Great Wall only sees the scale and momentum of the year, and the style of the year no longer exists. In the long river of time, only one ruined wall stands in the wind. It's like a silent old man in his last years, and all the stories are buried in the bottom of his heart.
Although I don't know what wars took place here, I don't know what era the war took place and what the outcome of the war was. I know that during the Qing Dynasty, there were three wars between China and Nepal, two of which caused the Monastery of Salquling, which was only more than 20 kilometers behind the Qumagu Great Wall, to be burned down, and the area around Dingjie suffered heavy losses. What role did the Qumagu Great Wall play in these wars? Has there ever been a fight? There are no official written records and no folk legends. History has left a mystery here.
No memories of the war were found on the Qumagu Great Wall, nor were there any traces of the war. Perhaps this gives people more room for imagination and adds a lot of mystery to the ancient Great Wall. In that already mysterious plateau, there is an even more mysterious Quma, Quma is no longer inhabited, only a collapsed Great Wall. The Quma Ancient Great Wall is not in the memory of history, but in a mysterious and thrilling picture. It is a picture that cannot be spoken, but can only be understood. Only when you are there will you feel what kind of beauty it is. The maverick mountain, the light smoke of the water, the dazzling blue sky, the fantasy grassland, and the mossy ancient Great Wall......