Outside Bangor County, we got into a small pickup truck bound for Nima County. Since the cab was full, the three of us had to squeeze into the cargo compartment at the back. The average altitude here is more than 4,000 meters, and in the middle of September, the sky is high and windy, the grass on the plateau has long been yellow, and the bare mountains are full of strange rocks. The wind blew through the dust. We were armed with gloves, scarves, and hats, but when Serincuo got out of the car, we were still dusty and like monsters from horror movies. Potato looked up to the sky and sighed, dreaming of coming to Tibet back then, but now it has become like this.

The destination of our trip was Hoh Xil, and Serincuo was not originally planned. It was only after listening to the temptation of a traveler in Lhasa before leaving that Serincuo was temporarily included in the trip. It was only after arriving in Serincuo that we really realized that the traveler was right. Since Serin Tso is not a holy lake in the minds of Tibetans, it is not famous. Even those who have been to Tibet have not heard of Serincuo, and even fewer have been there. In fact, the area of the lake is no less than that of the holy lake Namtso, which is not far away, and in terms of natural beauty, it is even better.

We got out of the car and threw all our gear on the side of the road and walked to the lake empty-handed. At this time, the water of the lake laps against the rocks on the shore, and it is extremely pure. Looking further afield, the surface of the lake is full of streamers. Because Tibetans do not eat fish, coupled with their reverence for the lake, there is not a single sail shadow on the boundless lake, and there is not a single flat boat. For thousands of years, without human interference, the largest lake on the plateau has only quietly changed its colors. Because Serincuo is a saltwater lake, although we are covered in dust, we dare not wash here.

Not far from where we put our luggage, there was a truck parked. It was a truck coming from Nima to Bangora and broke down here. Seeing that our group was planning to camp here, the driver said while repairing the car that he thought the scenery here was charming? The driver told us that we walked a few kilometers further and arrived at the pass, where the scenery was even more beautiful. The driver told us it was best not to camp outside, as wolves are often seen in the area at night. We followed the driver's advice and walked in the direction of the pass with our backpacks on our backs. The driver told us that there is a stone house under the pass where the herdsmen lived when they were grazing, and that they could spend the night there.

The road detour to the lake stretches all the way, and we enjoy the scenery of Selincuo as we walk. In the middle of the lake, there is a large island in the middle of the lake, and the huge rocks on the island are connected and have a strange shape. It was not until the pass that the road left the lake. There is another path around the lake, there is a small stone mountain on the side of the road in the distance, there is a stone tower by the lake under the mountain, and there are several small stone houses not far from the tower.

After a democratic vote, we elected Dachao to go to the stone house to find out. Before Da Chao reached the door of the stone house, suddenly a fierce dog sprang out of the house, and Da Chao was frightened and fled. The fierce dog did not chase after Dachao, but just stood at the door and roared loudly. At this moment, a figure of a man appeared at the other end of the path, and the man stood in the middle of the path, gesturing with his hand in a gesture that turned out to be a standard passable sign language.

We approached the man, an elderly shepherd who didn't speak Chinese but could understand some simple words. We explained the meaning of the overnight with a gesture, and the old shepherd nodded in agreement. We followed the old shepherd into his yard, and the fierce dog was lying obediently at the gate of the yard motionless, and there was no such ferocity as he saw him.

The old shepherd's house was not large, and only he and his wife lived. As soon as we entered the house, the old shepherd's wife poured us steaming butter tea and brought out a large plate of Tibetan snacks to satisfy our hunger. The old shepherd's house could not accommodate the three of us, so the old shepherd arranged us in a large tent made of yak hair in the courtyard. By the time we dropped off our luggage, the sky was already in thick twilight.

We walked out of the old shepherd's yard and came to the lake. At this time, the sky will set, and the last glow will reflect the colored Lincuo, a faint red with a little golden light lining the stone forest of the island in the middle of the lake, creating an indescribable artistic conception. Above our heads, several crows, which had been mistaken for eagles, circled, making a rough noise or two from time to time. The waves on the lake in the wind are layered on top of each other, and the waves splash silver waves between the waves, row by row, from far to near, with bursts of earth-shattering roars, between heaven and earth. This is a majestic power, a kind of domineering between heaven and earth.

I sat by the lake for a long time. The edge of this Pure Land, this Pure Land that has not yet been polluted by humans, breathes naturally and rises and falls naturally. Let people revel in this moist, slightly salty smell. As the time passed, under the sparse starlight, the surface of the lake gradually became almost invisible, only the island in the middle of the lake was dark and swarthy in a strange way. In the darkness, only the waves gently lapped on the shore of the lake, and the sound hit my heart, like a mother patting her childhood in anticipation of a dream.

After returning to the courtyard and drinking a few bowls of barley wine with the old shepherd and his wife, we went back to the tent. The old shepherd wanted to make a fire in the pit for us, but we refused. We think this season should be able to deal with it, so don't want to bother the old man too much. It was almost midnight when we realized what a mistake we had made. But it's too late, and we have to suffer in silence.

Before going to bed, we deliberately turned on an outdoor light. Darkness can easily create fear, let alone in a strange place. In addition, the car repair driver in the afternoon said that there was a psychological impact of wolf infestation. Although the old shepherd firmly denied it, we felt that it was not a big mistake to be careful. With such thoughts, coupled with the fatigue of the day, we soon fell asleep.

In the middle of the night, I woke up freezing and felt like I was covered in a layer of ice. When I opened my eyes, I saw that Dachao on one side was already sitting with his knees crossed, obviously too cold to sleep. The potato was still asleep, and nothing seemed to stop his dreams. The wind was whining outside the tent, and the cold was coming from nowhere, and I put on all the clothes I could, but it was still too cold. Dachao, like me, began to regret in the cold that he had rejected the old shepherd's kindness to make a fire. If there is a vigorous fire burning in the fire pit at this time, then the warm feeling is heaven. We didn't expect the nights in Serintso to be so cold this season. At this time, the potatoes were also frozen awake, and they were noisily making a fire. But we don't know where the cow dung from the old shepherd's house is placed, even if we find it, we don't know how to use cow dung to make a fire. I've experienced the smoke from a fire made from cow dung, and the space in the tent is simply too much for us to fit in. In a dilemma, the potato found a few pieces of cow felt in one corner of the tent. We don't care what color or smell the cow felt is, so we grab a piece and wrap it around our bodies. Cow felt is thick, heavy, and hard, but it is very cold. After a while, I gradually felt the cold being blocked out of the cow hair felt, and the heat on my body was slowly rising. Relying on this piece of cow felt, we finally survived the night.

The next morning, we bid farewell to the old shepherd and his wife, and ascended to the pass not far behind the house. Looking at Serincuo from the pass, it is another scene. At this time, the sun has just risen, and the sunlight is refracted on the surface of the lake, and the lake is covered with coral streamers, which makes people dizzy.

Serincuo is indeed a lake full of magic, with mysterious beauty from different angles and different times.

Standing at the pass, the sun shines on you. At this time, the cold of last night has disappeared, wearing a single coat, facing the slight wind, facing the ever-changing Selincuo, there is a sense of detachment from the world in my heart. Is this the legendary fairy time?