When we arrived at Shuanghu County, it was already late September. When you enter the twin lakes, you enter the confines of Hoh Xil. Shuanghu was originally a special management area, but in 2012 it was withdrawn to become a county. It is the last county to be established in China so far. The average altitude of Shuanghu County is 5,100 meters, and the altitude of the county seat is 4,900 meters. As soon as we entered the confines of Shuanghu County, we began to appreciate the breath of Hoh Xili, from Serincuo to Baili Qiangtang, to the open-air hot spring pools on the top of the mountain in Doma, to the frozen lake under the hot springs. From the pikas with their children and daughters standing upright on the hills and looking around curiously, to the wild donkeys grazing leisurely, to the herds of Tibetan antelopes running with their hooves smoking. In our eyes, Hoh Xil is gradually becoming clear.

Hoh Xil has always been a place I yearn for, because of the legends there, because of the desolation there, because of the poignancy there. And because of the breadth there, the magnificence there. It is also because of the creatures there that can walk freely, and there is no limit to life.

After staying in Shuanghu County for one night, the three of us headed into the depths of Hoh Xil. On September mornings, the weather in Hoh Xil was gray and cold. It is said that the coldest cold is the cold heart, and the cold of Ke Ke Xili is a kind of cold that is even colder than the cold heart. If it weren't for the cotton clothes and pants we bought in the county seat the first day, I'm afraid we wouldn't have to walk a few steps away from the county seat, and we would have to go home.

Hoh Xil greeted us with not only the cold but also the wind. The wind in Hoh Xili is invisible, and there is no trace of the wind blowing in sight, and there is not a trace of the wind being heard. But while walking, I feel the oncoming pressure all the time. We carried heavy bags on our backs, and every step was struggling.

The first day of walking was more difficult than we could have imagined. Starting from the hillside next to the temple behind the county seat, we have been walking with our heads buried in the wind, and the raging wind and sand make it impossible to look up. The difficult march made us unable and unwilling to enjoy the scenery of Hoh Xil. Along the only winding mud road on the plateau, we moved forward step by step, until the wind began to light up in the afternoon after crossing several mountain beams. We were tired enough along the way, and we couldn't find a place to take shelter from the wind and rest on the side of the road along the way. Except for the potatoes who threw down their backpacks in the middle of the road and gasped for breath a few times, Dachao and I gritted our teeth and persevered.

In the afternoon, we felt that our physical exertion was too great and we couldn't hold on. Fortunately, the wind was much less windy behind the mountain beam that we had just climbed, and we found a small flat land where we could pitch a tent in a hollow with the wind on our back. The tent was set up in the wind, and the three of us were crammed into a small tent. Finally, there was no wind in the tent, and although I couldn't stretch my feet when I sat cross-legged, my hands could move freely. We drank some water in the tent, ate some dry food, closed our eyes for a while, and then felt that our strength and energy were slowly returning. Tudou sighed with emotion, saying that he dreamed of coming to Tibet back then, but now he has become like this.

Walking in Hoh Xil is like walking on a huge staircase. In front of him was an empty field, and behind the field was a high mountain range. Climb to the top of the mountain, and behind the top of the mountain is an empty field, and at the end of the field is a high mountain range. And so on and so forth.

Hoh Xil is a windy world, when you walk under the clear sky, you will suddenly look up, you will find a wind dust billowing up in the distance, instantly overwhelming people, making you disgraced. Sometimes the plateau is so beautiful that you can't see anything out of the ordinary, but every step you take forward, you feel a huge resistance from the wind. Even if you stand still, you will feel a force pushing towards you in front of you.

From the morning from the Shuanghu County set out against the snowflakes in the sky, the deeper you walked into Hoh Xili, the fewer the snowflakes drifted, and finally disappeared, revealing a clear sky. And the wind never stopped. At dusk, we were ready to camp, but we couldn't find a place to shelter from the wind. We had to keep going, and by the time it was getting dark, we couldn't find a suitable campsite. In the end, I had to find a flat field at the bottom of a slope to deal with it for the night.

In the windy Hoh Xil, it is a difficult challenge to set up your own tent on your own. Even if two people pull up the tent together, they will immediately be torn into a ball by the wind and quickly thrown into the distance. Even throwing a few rocks into the tent first couldn't hold it down. In the end, the three of us worked together, first spread the tent on the ground, two people pressed it at both ends, and the other person stuffed dozens of pounds of backpacks into the tent, and then stuffed some stones, and then the three of us worked together to prop up the support. By the time it was already dark, we were able to build three tents with the help of three outdoor lights. We were so tired that we got together to eat something, then huddled in our respective tents, and fell asleep quickly to the sound of the wind blowing the tents.