Chapter 220 The Development of Silk II
readx;?? For Zhang Jiashi, the development of large-scale industrialization of silk and the industrial-level silk production model in later generations is undoubtedly impossible to use as a reference. Pen, fun, pavilion www. biquge。 info∵ eight ∵ eight ∵ read ∵ books, .↗.▲o After all, industrialization is a huge gap that cannot be crossed at the moment.
There are a lot of things that you really can't do if you want to do them. It's like trying to make a steam engine at the current level...... Zhang Jiashi said, wash and sleep.
But if the level of silk production is developed in a model that can be leapfrogged, this is certainly possible. And the content of the "Heavenly Creations" chapter is undoubtedly the best help.
......
In addition to the way of breeding silkworms, "Tiangong Kaiwu Naifu" also has an introduction to silk production skills that should represent the pinnacle of manual production, and this introduction is also quite detailed.
Zhang Jiashi said that although he is not an agriculturist himself, it is obvious that the silk production instructions of "Tiangong Kaiwu Naifu" are almost simple and easy to understand for professionals:
Where the cocoon is made for three days, it is foiled and taken. The floating silk outside the shell, a silk frame, the old woman of Hujun bought it at a cheap price (100 wen per catty), beat it into a thread with a copper coin, and weave it into lake silk. After floating, its cocoon must be spread out on the shelf with a large plate to listen to the silk and expand. If it is covered up with a kitchen box, it will be gloomy and cut off.
Where the bottom of the double cocoon and the silk reeling pot is more than zero, and the cocoon shell is planted, all of which are broken and chaotic and cannot be used for silk, so as to take cotton. Boil it in rice ash water (lime is not suitable) and pour it into a basin of clean water. The big fingers of the hand are removed from the nails, the top of the fingers is opened four, the four are counted, the fist is opened and the number of four forty-six punches is opened, and then the small bamboo bow is on. The so-called "Zhuangzi" is also "rippling".
Hu Mian's monologue is pure and clean, and the technique is always wonderful. When the bow is raised, it is only quick to take it and spread it with water. If it is slowed down and the water flows away, the agglomeration is not fully resolved, and the color is not pure and white. The rest of the silk is called the bottom of the pot, and the cotton clothes are packed and the inside is used to keep out the cold, which is called "coercion". Where to take cotton artificially, it is difficult to take eight times the silk, and the competition only has more than four taels. Those who use this cotton pendant to weave lake silk are quite heavy. The name of the person who climbs the flower machine on the cotton line is called the flower cotton, and the price is particularly heavy.
Where to treat the silk first silk car, its size, the instrument after the load of the drawing. The pot is extremely boiling soup, and the thickness of the silk depends on the number of cocoons, and one person can take thirty taels of poor power. If the head is wrapped, only 20 taels are taken, and its seedlings are long. Where the silk rose, cast twenty cocoons together, and only more than ten pieces of baotou silk. When the cocoon is boiling, the water surface is stirred with a bamboo stick, and the silk thread is self-seeing. Start with the thread, introduce the eye of the bamboo needle, first circle the head of the star (made of bamboo sticks, like a incense tube), and then hook by the silk rod to climb the big car. When it is broken, the thread is thrown away, and there is no need to bypass. The silk is evenly arranged and not piled up, all on the wire rod and grinding wood. Sichuan Shu silk car system is slightly different, its law frame horizontal pot, lead four or five threads up, two people to find the pot in the thread, but in the end not as good as the lake system.
Those who are used for the treatment of silk salary, and take extremely dry and smokeless wet, will not be damaged. There are six words in the method of silk beauty: one is called "export dry", that is, when the cocoon is formed, it is dried with charcoal. One said "out of the water dry", then when the silk boarded the car, with charcoal fire four or five two pots, go to the car off five inches, run like the wind turning, turn the fire to dry, is the sunrise water dry (if the sun and wind, then do not use fire).
When weaving silk, the first thing to use is to use the tune. Under the eaves of translucent eaves is paved with wooden frames, and four bamboos are planted on the top, and the name is called Luo Du. On the silk bamboo, its leaning pillar is eight feet high, the nail is obliquely installed on the small bamboo glaive hook, the silk is suspended in the hook, and the hand is held and twisted, so as to pull the warp and weave the weft. The small bamboo falling stone is a live head, and when it is broken, it is pulled down.
After the silk is finished, it is warp and weft. The warp quality is less and the weft quality is more. Ten taels per filament, four warps and six wefts, this is rough. Where for the weft, with water fertile wet silk, shake the car and spin on the bamboo pipe (bamboo with small arrows).
After the silk is finished, the warp is woven. With a straight bamboo pole through the eyes more than 30 people, through the circle, the name is called slippery. On the pole horizontal frame post, the wire passes through the palm fan from the circle, and then wraps around the warp rake. The degree is sufficient, and the printing rack is bundled. Both bundles, in order to cross the bamboo twice, one up and down the silk, and then extremely in the reed (this reed is not a woven reed). After the pole reed, the bar and the seal frame looked at each other, and the five or seven zhang were opened. Or those who are too muddled, and they are too muddled. Or not too paste, on this rolled in the bar, wear the string on the weaving.
All pastes are made of small flour in gluten. Yarn and Luo must be used, and silk and silk may or may not be used. If there is no quality in its dyeing yarn, it is made of cow glue, and it is called clear rubber yarn. The paste is attached to the reed, dyed thoroughly with time, and dried with time. The weather is sunny and dry, and the cloudy day will be blown by the wind.
All silks, regardless of silk and Luo, are not side-to-side, with more than 20 wisps on each side. The edges shall be pasted and combed dry with a reed. Where Aya, Luo must be thirty zhang, fifty or sixty zhang a wear, in order to save the hardship of wearing. Each horse should be cut off on the edge of the silk, that is, to know the foot of its ruler. Don't go around the beam.
Where weaving silk, Luo, yarn reed to 800 teeth as the rate. Aya, silk reed at the rate of 1,200 teeth. For those who have passed through the paste moderately in each reed tooth, the four strands are combined into two strands, the Luo and yarn warps are 3,200 strands, and the silk warp is 5,000 and 6,000 strands. Eighty strands of ancient books are one liter, and the silk and silk are thick, and the ancient so-called sixty liters of cloth are also. Where the weaving of flowers must be used Jia, lake outlets, and water, all dry silk is the warp, then let it be lifted, and there is no worry about disconnection. He is reluctant to jacquard and scribble.
Where the flower machine is one zhang six feet long, the uplift of the flower building, the middle support Qu Pan, the drooping Qu foot (water mill bamboo stick for it, a total of 1,800 roots). Dig a pit two feet under the flower building, and hide the feet of Qu (those who are damp, and set up a shed two feet instead). The jacquard guy sits on the wooden frame of the standing flower floor. At the end of the machine, the rod is rolled with two branches of stacked wood, which penetrates through the two woods, about four feet long, and its tip is inserted at both ends of the reed.
Stacking, weaving lesa, depending on the weaver of silk to reduce more than ten catties. Its Su Luo does not have a pattern, and the soft yarn silk step into a wave of plum flowers, depending on Su Luo only add two fans. A person who treads and weaves on his own, does not need to jacquard people, lives in the flower building, and does not set up Qupan and Qujiao. Its machine type is connected to two joints, the first one is safe, and the lower foot is leaning low from the flower building to the body, and it is stacked to help the male. If the weaving head is soft and soft, it is another flat and not oblique machine. Sitting on two feet, with its silk fine, the power of prevention and stacking is also.
Where weaving Hangxi, Luodi and other silk, light silk and other silk, silver stripes, scarves and hats and other yarns, do not need to use a flower machine, only use a small machine. The weaver sits down on the side of the cooked skin, and its strength is all on the waist jiri, so it is called the waist machine. Those who weave kudzu, ramie, and cotton cloth all over the world, use this machine method, the cloth is more neat and firm, and it is a pity that it is not widely spread today.
Those who make flowers are the most ingenious. The painter first draws what kind of color on the paper, and the knot bears the paper with the silk thread to measure with the painting, and calculates the proportions and suddenly forms it. Zhang hanging flower floor, that is, the weaver does not know what color it is, wears the thread with the warp, with its size and degree to lift the foot of Qu, after the shuttle actually appeared. Cover the silk silk to float lightly and appear flowers, leno to correct the weft and appear flowers. Silk silk shuttle and mention, saro to shuttle, to shuttle not to mention. Tiansun is a machine, and people are skillfully prepared.
Where the thread is threaded, four people must sit in a row. The person who crosses the reed holds the reed rake and inserts it first, waiting for the silk to arrive. If the silk is over the reed, the two fingers will be determined, and if the reed is fifty or seventy, it will be knotted. It's not messy, the news is all in the hand. That is, it is broken, and the silk is several inches long. After the knot, according to the degree of reduction, the essence of this silk has its own wonder.
Van Luo, the hollow path is cool through the wind, and its news is all in the soft synthesis. The head of the gon is made of two fans, one soft and one hard. After the five shuttles and three shuttles (the thickest seven shuttles), step on the soft comprehensive, naturally correct the scriptures, and the empty road is not sticky. If the road is not empty and is still thin, the news is also on the two heads. Until the weaving of silk flowers, then go to these two fans, and use eight fans.
Where the left and right hands each use a shuttle to weave, it is called crepe. Where the single scripture is said to be Luodi, the double scripture is said to be silk, and the five scriptures are said to be silk. All flowers are divided into the ground and the ground, the light of the ground, and the darkness of the field. The first to dye the silk and then the weaver said satin (North Tutun silk, also dyed silk first). When weaving on the silk machine, two shuttles are light, one shuttle is heavy, and those who vacate the scarce road are called Qiuluo, and this method also rises in modern times. Fan Wu, Yue Qiu Luo, Fujian, Guang Huaisu, all Li Jin gentry as summer clothes, Tun silk for foreign officials, humble officials and other splendid use.
Where silk is weaved, it is like raw silk, and it is cooked and cooked. Practice boiling with rice ash in water. Stay overnight with pig pancreatic fat, enter the soup Huanzhi, and the treasure is bright. Or those who use black plum, the color of the treasure is slightly reduced. Where the early silk is the warp and the late silk is the weft, every ten taels are lightly removed from three taels when they are practiced. The warp and weft are all beautiful early filament, and the lightening is only two taels. After practicing, the day is dry and anxious, and the big mussel shell is grinded to make it obtuse, and the whole body is scraped through to become a treasure.
Where the satin system of Dongyi, Zhang, Quanhai follow suit. The silk comes from Sichuan and Shu, and the merchants sell it thousands of miles to return to the Li with easy pepper. Its weaving method was also transmitted from Yiguo. The cover has been dyed first, and the cotton is hidden on the surface of the warp, and it is scraped into a black light after a few inches. Those who are in the north are happy to see it. However, its silk is the most susceptible to decay and staining, and the dust on the crown is immediately collected, and the collar is damaged by the day. Today, Huayi is cheap, and it will be discarded in the future, and the weaving method will not be passed on.
......
From the introduction of silk production shown in "Tiangong Kaiwu?Naifu", it can be seen that during the compilation of "Tiangong Kaiwu" by Song Yingxing, the silk industry is likely to have appeared hazy assembly line operation.
And many places have detailed the production level of the silk industry during the Ming Dynasty, which is not too much of the corresponding level under the Great Qin Empire.
This is the situation that Zhang Jiashi is most concerned about.
What makes Zhang Jiashi even more interested is the introduction of the cotton cloth production method that he can't reach at the moment, but will definitely be useful in the future:
Where cotton cloth keeps out the cold, the noble and the low are the same. The ancient name of cotton is tannel, and it is planted all over the world. There are two kinds of kapok and grass cotton, and the flowers are white and purple. The breeder is 19 in white and 11 in purple. Where cotton is planted in spring and autumn flowers, the flowers bloom first and pick them day by day, and they are not taken for a while. Its flowers are sticky in the belly, and they are divided by boarding the car. Go to the child to take the flower, and the hanging bow is bounced (for the person who carries the warm jacket and the jacket, it will stop the work). After playing, rub a wooden board into a long strip to board the spinning wheel, and lead the thread to be entangled into yarn. Then wrap around the warp and weave it. Those who are able to spin three tubes in one hand on the collar (fast is not strong).
All cotton cloth has every inch of soil, and weaving is still Songjiang, and pulp dyeing is still Wuhu. Where the cloth is tight, it is firm, and if it is slow, it is brittle. Grinding stone to take Jiangbei cold and greasy (each piece is worth more than ten gold). If the stone is not feverish, it will be tight and not loose. Wuhu giant store first Shangjia stone. Guangnan is a serval, and the preference for long-term production must be tried. For the clothes, there is still a cold anvil pounding sound, and its righteousness is also the same.
Foreign Koreans have the same manufacturing method, but the West has not verified its quality, and its weaving is not wonderful. All weaving cloth has cloud flowers, oblique texts, elephant eyes, etc., all imitate the flower machine and give birth to righteousness. However, the cloth clothes are too plain 5 to be enough. There must be ten rooms of the loom, and there is no need to have a drawing.
Where the clothes are wrapped to keep out the cold, one person is cocooned in the middle of a hundred things, and the rest is covered with water. The ancient robe is now commonly known as the fat jacket. Cotton is elastic and fitted in the form of a coat. The new installer is attached to the body lightly warm, after years of tightness, the heating gradually disappears, take out the elastic and reinstall it, its warmth is the same.
Where ramie has no soil, it does not grow. It is planted with two methods of sprinkling seeds and splitting heads (Chijun Hi Sui uses grass manure to press the head, and its roots are high with the soil. Quang Nam green hemp seed farming is very rich). There are two colors: green and yellow. There are two shavers and three cutters per year, and they are known as summer clothes and curtains.
After peeling the ramie skin, it is dry and dry, and it will rot when it sees water. When it is broken, it is soaked in water, but it can only withstand 20 minutes, and it will be rotten if it is not analyzed for a long time. The ramie is light yellow, and the bleaching is turned to white (first take rice ash and lime water and boil it, then float it in long running water, and then dry it to become white). Those who can spin ramie use a bicycle to fight against three workers, but when they are broken, they only weigh three or five baht. Ramie weaving machinery is the same as cotton weavers. Where cloth clothes are sewn and leather shoes are strung together, their quality must be entangled with ramie.
Van kudzu is grown, and the quality is several feet longer than ramie. Broken to the fine, into the cloth is valuable. There is also a kind of hemp, which is very coarse, and the coarsest one is used to fill the mourning clothes. That is, the ramie cloth is extremely coarse, and the lacquer family uses the cloth ash to hold the ash, and the large interior is used to fill the torch. There is also banana yarn, which is taken from the banana peel in Fujian and analyzed for it, which is very light and thin, and the value is cheap and the quality is not for clothing.
From the introduction of the use of cotton to make clothes, its relatively brief content may explain two situations, one is that the use of cotton clothes in the Ming Dynasty is not extensive, and the other is that the production of cotton clothes is very simple and not as troublesome as silk.
Zhang Jiashi does not think that the first point has a corresponding possibility, and from the second point, it is very likely that the Ming Empire established a high-level production method for handicrafts to make cotton clothes, and promoted it.
Zhang Jiashi believes that from the perspective of the country, there is no doubt that the way cotton clothes are made is more important.
It's just that at the moment, it is not as expressed in the content of the article "Heavenly Creations?Naifu", the current Great Qin Empire, or Zhang Jiashi, has not discovered the existence of such a thing as cotton.
There is no doubt that it is obviously inappropriate to compare the current situation of the Great Qin Empire with the national conditions nearly two thousand years later.
Just Zhang Jiashi's vigorous promotion of cotton cultivation will take a long time to have sufficient results.
This is a headache for Zhang Jiashi.
And Zhang Jiashi himself did not think about one point, that is, to find cotton seeds through the Huns.
But for two reasons, Zhang Jiashi finally gave up on this idea:
The first consideration is that if Zhang Jiashi wants the Huns to make this request, it is obviously a matter of three hundred taels of silver here.
Although for nomadic people like the Xiongnu, the cultivation of crops was not their specialty.
But the Huns can keep delaying, even if they find cotton seeds, I'm afraid they won't trade with the Great Qin Empire.
The second point is that the current sphere of influence of the Xiongnu is not as great as in the original time and space, and they have a great influence on the countries of the Western Regions.
The westward expansion is still a national policy that was only formally established by Mao Dun and Lao Shangdan in the period, so it is better to expect the Huns to find cotton, than to fight with the Huns first. [To be continued.] ]