756.Brother Li's Ambition (II)

It can be said that as long as you can own any of the five major wineries, you can enter the upper class society overnight and become a real person.

The five wineries not only have a long history, but each of them has its own unique characteristics.

Compared to Mouton's openness and commerce, the low-key and secluded Château Lafite is like an isolated village with a mysterious atmosphere, and although the owner invests in the winery and is often visited by visitors from all over the world, Château Lafite is not only an old-fashioned bourgeois industry, but also more like an old feudal empire.

The wines of Château Lafite are also in this style: very elegant, very aristocratic, even with a little tenderness, serious and cautious, without too much emotion, always keeping a little distance, as if the head is raised, the back is straight, it is difficult to get close to it, and you need to wait until the wine is ripe to feel her wonderful. Unlike Mouton's ripe fruit and toasted incense, Lafite's signature features are pencil leads, minerals and cedar.

The 100 hectares of vineyards are mainly located on the terraces in the north of the village, just across a small valley from the village of Saint-Estève, and even 3 hectares of Lafite vineyards are located in the village of Saint-Estève. The gravel is very deep and coarse, and it is undoubtedly the best in the whole Médoc, and there are also large vineyards in the "Cariades", to the west of Château Mouton de Rothschild.

The grapes planted today include 71% Cabernet Sauvignon, 20% Merlot, 7% Cabernet Franc and 2% Petit Verdot. Although Lafite's Cabernet Sauvignon is planted a little lower in the Médoc's top châteaux, the actual percentage added is quite high. Merlot grapes rarely exceed 10%, and in 1994 even 100% Cabernet Sauvignon was used.

Until now, Château Lafite has been made in wooden vats, usually with one week of fermentation and two weeks of skins, and the vinification method is quite simple, the traditional Bordeaux winemaking method. The finished wine is placed in brand new oak barrels and cultured for a year and a half to two years in a circular underground cellar designed by Ricardo Bofel. The special selection of wines was the main method used by Château Lafite to improve its quality in the nineties. Regardless of the vintage, only less than one-third of the wines produced each year are selected as Lafite, and the rest are made into the second military wine "Carryades". Lafite has been producing the Second Army since 1874 and was one of the first Bordeaux wines to launch the Second Army wine.

In the village of Pauillac, there are many wineries that can produce stronger wines than Lafite de Rothschild, but if you want to talk about balance and rigor of structure, it is Lafite. In particular, Lafite's silky tannins not only reveal the delicate style of the wine, but also form a solid foundation for the wine, and although it is not particularly astringent, it has the same durability potential as that of another top château, Château Latour.

Latour, on the other hand, is characterized by solid tannins, and Latour is the most typical of all the Médoc vineyards. Located on the banks of the vast Gironte River, the widest river in Europe, the daily tides and river breezes create a flow of air, providing the best conditioning for the vineyards on the bank, and the gentle slope facing east also facilitates drainage and sunshine. But the most striking are the deep gravel fields on which the vineyards are located, which were built up at the end of the fourth century in a very large area, with little soil and only occasional river sand, which is barren, insulating, reflecting light and draining.

Underneath the gravel layer is a clay deposited in the third century, which is impermeable to water and retains water for the vines. This is the vineyard of Latour, which allows Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon to grow grapes with a particularly high tannin in a difficult situation, producing the most majestic red wine in Bordeaux.

As one of the top red wineries in Bordeaux, or indeed in the world, at the turn of the century, Château Latour, which has been gravel for more than 300 years, is about to embark on a plan of reorganization that has lasted for more than 20 years. The heart of the project, Technical Director of Viticulture and Winemaking, Ardion, has been in the hands of the 32-year-old since 1999.

The new cellar, which has already begun, was completed in 2001 and the grapes go directly into the vats, reducing the damage to the grapes from the pump. The size of the vat has been changed from 20,000 litres to 9 sizes from 18,000 to 1,000 litres, allowing for more precise wine production. The oak cellar has also been completely remodeled, divided into two levels, not only to control the temperature, but also to keep the use of the pump to a minimum. The reform of the vineyard will take longer than the renovation of the cellar, Latour has the best vineyard in the whole Médoc, but Adion felt that it was not enough, he wanted to make the vineyard grow more rationally.

Château Latour is arguably the most admired Château de la Tour in the Médoc, with a solid bone, iron-clad tannins, like a giant beast that no one can tame but time. Even if there have been countless owners, Latour has always had the appearance of Latour in good years and bad years, and this is a winery that has nothing to say, everything is in the wine.

As a Premier Cru Domaine, Château Margaux is different. She has become almost the focal point of the village, especially the architecture of the castle itself, which is a fitting expression of the spirit of the Médoc: the neoclassical architecture of the early 19th century, with four towering Ionian columns, simple and heavy column tops and triangular friezes, 24 steps of stone staircase and two symmetrical sphinxes, which are very proportionally low to build the façade of the castle. Whenever one tastes a top Médoc, you will be reminded of the Château de Margaux, designed by Louis Combe, where the tartar in your mouth is so well proportioned and balanced that it is like the Parthenon on the Acropolis.

Many people describe Château Margaux as one of the most feminine in the Médoc, often filled with floral notes and delicate tannins, but this does not mean that Château Margaux is a soft and light wine. In fact, the most rare thing about Château Margaux is that the wines often combine elegance and power, detail and intensity, in a very subtle and very durable way. Château Margaux has a completely Médoc elegance - well-proportioned and cultured, like a lady in short clothes who does not show too much emotion, without wildness, full of aristocratic atmosphere.

In the case of Obian, it is both red and white.

Today, Château d'Aubion has 46 hectares of vineyards and is surrounded by a wall that already extends to the city of Pessac, a satellite of Bordeaux.

The vineyard is enclosed on two gentle hills called Ba-Anse and Duzès, separated by a road from Bordeaux to Péssac, and is the deepest gravel in the whole Péssac-Léoghéan. Like most of Château Graff, Obianne produces both red and white wines, but most of them are red grapes, and only 2.7 hectares of white grapes.

She is also one of the first first-class wineries.

Often one of the first vineyards in Bordeaux, Aubian is considered to be located in the centre of the city, where the temperatures are relatively high, and the grapes ripen faster than the country vineyards, often mined before the official harvest date. In addition to its early ripening, but also because of the particularly high content of Merlot grapes, Obiande red wines are often more round and delicious than those of the Médoc. Very intense bouquets often have ripe fruity and smoky flavours, with tight tannins, but at the same time many full-bodied and sweet fruity flavours, which are usually the fastest ripening and the earliest to be tasted among the five Premier Cru châteaux. It may not be as elegant as any other Premier winery, but it is guaranteed to be delicious and delicious.

And Mouton, the youngest of the five largest estates, is also the most commercialized.

In 1855, Mouton was ranked first in the Grade 2 Domain, and after years of hard work by Baron Philippe, it was proved that Mouton was indeed sold for as much as Lafite, and in 1973 it was successfully promoted to Premier. Mouton and Lafite are actually on the same gravel terrace north of the village of Pauillac, and the conditions of the two wineries are quite similar, Mouton is in the south, the gravel layer is a little lighter, but it is already one of the best vineyards in the Médoc. There are currently 75 hectares of vineyards, planted with 77% Cabernet Sauvignon, 10% Cabernet Franc, 11% Merlot, and 2% Petit Verdot.

Compared with the neighboring Lafite, Mouton is indeed a bit ostentatious and commercial in its management, and the style of the wine also has a tendency to do so. Compared to Mouton, the wines produced by Lafite, another branch of the Rothschild family, are a bit serious and closed when they are young, while Mouton is less likely to be like this, more direct, or more enthusiastic, often rich and round on the palate, and more ripe fruit and smoked aromas.

But in any case, Mouton has the tall and burly skeleton of Pauillac red wine, with a meaty texture, and a lot of tannins can often be well balanced, and the style of Mouton may not be so admirable, but it is full of charm with a deep and firm taste and a variety of rich aromas.

And Mouton is best known for his combination of wine labels and works of art.

Baron Philippe came up with the idea that each year's label would be designed by a famous artist of the time. In 1946, these labels, designed by the world's great painters and sculptors, became a permanent and distinctive destination for Château Mouton, with the exception of the 2000 vintage, which was carved directly into the bottle and gilded.

Since 1945, with the exception of 1953 and 1977, the labels of each vintage have been printed with the works of a different artist.

For example, Jean Cocteau in 1947, Dalí in 1958, Henry Moore in 1964, Chagall in 1970, Kandinsky in 1971, Picasso in 1973, Andy Warworth in 1975, and so on, were among the most famous artists of the 20th century, and they were paid five boxes of Mouton from that vintage.

To celebrate the 100th anniversary of Château Mouton, Baron de Rothschild was painted on the label in 1953, and in 1977, the visit of the Queen ****** and her mother, Queen Elizabeth, was also designed to commemorate the visit to Château Mouton

There have been two special exceptions in history where two labels were used on wines in the same vintage. The first time was in 1978, when the Montreal artist Jean-Paul ?? Leopel came up with two labels, and Baron Philip, who liked both, divided the wine into two horses and used two labels. Another time was in 1993, the Polish-born French painter Balthus drew a sexy fruit girl on the label, so he was banned from the United States Administration of Tobacco, Alcohol, Firearms and Explosives. At that time, it was suggested that the owner of the winery should change the label, but the owner of the winery at that time insisted on not changing it, so the vintage wine released in the United States was a different version from the other markets, and the label was blank to replace the original position of the fruit, but this move caused collectors to compete to buy two different versions, which caused the price of the 93 wine to rise considerably.

This relabeling feature resulted in Château Mouton wines being more expensive and collectible at auction than the other four Premier Cru wineries that did not change their labels every year.

The name Mouton is also quite interesting, translated into Chinese is "sheep", but the origin of Mouton's name has nothing to do with sheep. In fact, it is derived from the word "raised earth slope". Fort Mouton is so named because it sits on a raised gravel terrace. However, Mouton's logo features two sheep on the left and right, and many artists often design wine labels for Mouton with sheep motifs. According to the winery, it was a pure coincidence that the sheep were designed as the logo of the winery because the sheep were Baron Philippe's lucky charm. In addition, Mouton Village also has a name of Wudang Wangzhuang, also known as Wudang Village, for the Chinese people may have more affinity for this name, but the title of Wudang King is completely transliterated, and has nothing to do with Wudang in the land of China.

The five major villages can be said to have their own characteristics, but it is undeniable that the status of the five major villages is too high, and it will be difficult to buy them. What's more, these five major estates can basically be equated with French red wine, just like Moutai's status in China, if suddenly a foreigner comes over one day and says that he wants to spend money to buy the entire Moutai...... Is it likely for the government to accept it?

It's not that the five major estates can not be bought, but it is very difficult, all kinds of joints must be opened, the problem is that the money cannot be spent less, this grade of winery, tens of billions of dollars at every turn is said to be less, Zhou Fangyuan made various investments some time ago, and now let him take out so much money...... I'm sorry, he really can't take it, let alone 10 billion, 5 billion is enough. But if there is not even a foundation of 100 million yuan, what kind of acquisition can we talk about? Is the person who can own a winery of this grade a person who is short of money? Well, even if there are unforeseen circumstances and it really reaches the point where it must be sold, the asking price of people will definitely not be lower than 1000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000

Zhou Fangyuan looked at Brother Xiao Li, he really pried open the other party's Tianling cover, and took a good look to see if it was full of old yogurt, why was it so sticky?

However, looking at Brother Xiao Li's confident appearance, Zhou Fangyuan couldn't help muttering in his heart, does Brother Xiao Li really have the ability to win the five major villages? If he can really win it, there is nothing wrong with intervening himself, but if he expects himself to take the lead...... That's still it, I don't have enough strength at this point, it's a big deal.