——The hidden pain of the Han people

Source: @Sohu

Introduction: It is not easy to see the clothes of the previous dynasty

On the first day of the first month of the 30th year of Qianlong, Hong Darong, a 35-year-old Korean, accompanied the Korean New Year envoys, dressed up to worship as usual to express the congratulations of the Korean king to the Manchu emperor. As he walked out of the noon gate after the ceremony, he noticed that there seemed to be many curious people watching him, as well as two officials in shawls, hats, and beads. Hong Darong felt very surprised, so he stepped forward and asked, "What does the master mean by looking at us?" The two replied with a smile: "Look at the characters and clothes of your country." Hong Darong couldn't help but move in his heart, so he asked: "How are we dressed better than the master?" The smiles on their faces seemed to freeze and they did not answer. According to Hong Darong's later records, these two people were Hanlin reviewers, one named Wu Xiang and the other Peng Guan.

When the Korean envoys wore traditional formal clothes, in fact, the previous dynasty - the Ming Dynasty that was replaced by the Qing Empire - came to Beijing, they became a strange scenery in the capital, they seemed to be strange clothes, they were often curious onlookers, not only these two Hanlin review, another surname Li Taichang Temple Shaoqing also came to ask, "Your clothes, what is the system of respect?" Another scholar named Zhou Yingwen asked curiously, "Is your clothing a relic?" It seems that the people who lived in the Qing Empire were no longer familiar with this kind of clothing that originally belonged to the Han dynasty, which made them not only unfamiliar, but also surprised.

Going back a few years, those who experienced the collapse of the sky during the Ming and Qing dynasties remember this kind of old dynasty clothes. This is the overthrown Ming Dynasty clothing, which is the old clothing of the Han people. While it was a necessary means for the new regime to force the population to recognize its legitimacy, it could be a painful process of severing history for those accustomed to the old dynasty. In the sixth year of Shunzhi (1649), that is, the Ming Dynasty had just fallen for five or six years, although the Southern Ming Dynasty was still struggling in the south, and the North Korea was still insisting on using the Chongzhen era name, but the Han people had to change their clothes, so when they saw the former eastern neighbors, the old Dongyi, they could still wear the old clothes to pass through the city, they often had some self-pity, and the Koreans who came to China often recorded that "the Chinese saw (me) Oriental clothes, all without tears, and their feelings were very affectionate, and they were relatively pitiful."

However, time will wear out the memory of history, by the middle of the Qianlong period when Hong Darong sent to Beijing, the Manchu Empire had been established for one hundred and twenty years, and it was already the fourth and fifth generations, as if people were already accustomed to Manchu costumes, but they regarded the clothes that were originally their own Han nationality as a foreign land system, a Han literati named Pan Tingyun, saw Hong Darong "with a square crown, wearing wide sleeves and regular clothes", he didn't know that this was the Ming Dynasty's Xiucai regular clothes, but he praised it as "ancient and elegant", and Hong Darong had to sue him in turn." Our clothes are all relics of the Ming Dynasty."

One. Old Clothes: Memories that were inadvertently opened

Is this a "legacy of the Ming Dynasty"? If it is true, in the center of the Qing Empire, there are some political taboos. So, in the middle of the Manchu Qing Dynasty, did the Korean envoys who came to the Qing Empire wearing the clothes of the previous dynasty really evoke some historical memories of wars, dynasties, and ethnic groups?

The Han people are not supposed to be the rightful rulers of China, but once the Han people, who have always regarded themselves as "Huaxia," are ruled by the Manchus, who originally despised them as "barbarians," they are always unwilling in the depths of their hearts. Chinese documents may not record much about this, but in Korean materials, you can see the long-suppressed shame of the Han people at that time. In the third year of Kangxi (1664), when the Korean envoy Hong Mingxia arrived in Beijing, he said that whenever the Han people saw the Korean envoy, "they all sighed and sighed, and they wanted to speak...... Seeing that I was dressed, I didn't feel that I was emotional", this mood is difficult to calm down in the short term. Five years later, a Han Zhixian surnamed Yan in Liaodong saw the North Korean envoy Min Dingzhong, although there were taboos in his words, but he was also very frank and said that although he was already in the Manchu Empire, he was also a Jinshi, and wore Manchu clothes, but he still envied your country in his heart for retaining the "prestige of Han officials".

The topic of clothes has always poked at the psychological pain of Han Chinese. Therefore, they are not only concerned about what clothes to wear, but they always avoid talking about clothes, and they are embarrassed and embarrassed. Until the forty-second year of Qianlong (1777), a Korean envoy surnamed Li also said, "Every time you talk to the Qu generation (referring to the Qing people) and ask about the system of their clothes, the Han people will be ashamed." Why are Han Chinese "ashamed"? Because North Korean clothes are really "made of China", and the clothes worn by China are already "barbarian" clothes. When it comes to this topic, the Han people have to be half self-deprecating, half deprecating, they say that the Manchu Qing Dynasty also has many advantages, "the hair is shaved, there is no combing, the upper and lower are uniform, there is no name, the system is simple, and the deacons serve without hindrance".

Although Cui Dezhong, a Korean who was in Beijing at the beginning of 1712, also knew that the Han people were helpless, because the Manchus were "imprisoned or beaten", and the Han people could only do so under high pressure, they still could not be relieved, and they felt both sad and contemptuous for the Qing Empire's phenomenon of "using Chinese dresses to play with the market". The Koreans have repeatedly said that the Qing Empire is actually not China, but barbarians, not to mention that now "within the four seas, all are Hufu, a hundred years of land sinking, Chinese cultural relics are gone, the former king's legal clothes, now all for the jokes of the drama army, change at will, the emperor and the Ming Dynasty ancient system is far away and dies, will not be seen again", this is very painful.

Two. Still in the former court's clothes: China only has the remnants?

The Manchu Qing Dynasty entered the customs, established a new era name in accordance with historical conventions, and forced the Han people to shave their heads and braided their hair, although it seems that the Manchu habit was used to force the Han people to accept, but in fact it just followed the Han people's tradition of "correcting Shuo and changing clothes". However, the remnants of the Han tradition, under the threat of "keeping their hair but not their heads", also responded with tradition, taking not being upright, not easy to wear, and not shaving their hair and braiding as a symbol of integrity. and mourning is the heart, rather death is the body", the so-called "Bao Fa Yan Yi Xia, Fu Ming a death and life", in the same tradition of the new dynasty and the remnants, lack of two positions like fire and water.

After all, most of them are ordinary people, and ordinary people are forced by power to obey power and shave their hair. Therefore, in a piece of braided hair and beard clothes, every time the North Korean envoy wearing this Ming clothes appeared, it seemed to cause a kind of thinking of leaving the homeland. In the fifty-first year of Kangxi, 68 years after the Ming and Qing dynasties, Cui Dezhong first arrived in the Qing Dynasty and had a conversation with a ninety-one-year-old monk:

Yu asked: The age of Jiashen, the twenty-first year of your year, can you remember the time? Answer: At that time, he had been a monk for a long time, did he not know? Question: Shall I be dressed the same as the Ming system? Answer: It's the same, there is no hat, only a crown and a hat.

In the same year, Min Zhenyuan accompanied Park Bicheng to the Qing Dynasty, when passing through Liaodong New Town, Min Zhenyuan also found that "the sightseeing Hu people have drooling people and said: My ancestors also wore such clothes", and after arriving at Shanhaiguan, he found that "the residents are many Han people, and the customs are different from those outside the customs. That night, he saw a young Han man gasping for the clothes of his Korean entourage and was overjoyed, so he asked, "Are you happy to wear such clothes?" Replied, "This is the clothes that our ancestors wore, how can we be upset?" And said, "Every time I think of the pain of shaving my head, I only want to have no life." A few days later, he met a scholar who claimed to be a descendant of the Ming royal family on the road, and also said, "Seeing the clothes worn by the old men, I am envious, what I wear, that is, how different is it from cattle and horses?" Then, he carefully threw the paper on which he wrote the question and answer into the fire and incinerated it, "sobbing and saying: I am afraid that someone will eavesdrop on it, so be cautious."

In the Qianlong period, it had been a hundred years since the establishment of the Manchu Dynasty, and the remnants of the robes and crowns that symbolized the orthodoxy of the Han nationality and their determination to oppose the Qing Dynasty had disappeared with the passage of time. At that time, the intellectual class had long accepted the reality of this alien regime, but sometimes they still remembered history, and they were still a little confused and guilty. After all, it is almost the Qianlong era, and the remnants, as a symbol of history, are no longer strong, and people have gradually become accustomed to the costumes of the new dynasty. At this time, the clothes of the Korean envoys became a resource to awaken the historical memory of the Han people. In a casual chat, Hong Darong told two Han literati about the following incident: A magistrate outside Shanhaiguan met the Korean envoys, invited them to the inner hall, borrowed Korean clothes from them to wear, and after putting on the clothes, the husband and wife wept at each other, which made the Korean envoys also cry. Let's talk about the story. The two Han literati "hung their heads silently", fell to their feet and sighed and said, "What a county".

If there is a sigh, it means that there is pain, and there is pain, and the scars of this kind of history will be uncovered from time to time. Although the remnants of the Ming Dynasty gradually disappeared with the passage of time, Yongzheng and Qianlong years, there was no longer much such thinking of detachment, and people who did not have the thought of detachment did not have the heart to wear the clothes of the Ming Dynasty again, but the historical memory of the Han nationality was buried very deep and did not disappear with the changes of the times. Therefore, although the remnants of such clothes no longer appear, these clothes continue to appear in the opera characters on the entertainment stage, in the ceremonial pilgrimage costumes of foreign envoys, and in the daily wear of Han women. When this seemingly marginal symbol appears, the hidden memories of the community will still be brought up from time to time.

Three. Stage: "Actors are all dressed in ancient clothes"

Let's look at the characters on the stage first.

During the Qianlong period, the Korean Li Demao (1741-1793) sent an envoy to Yanjing, one day to Dong'anmen to pay homage to the Dacheng Temple, the temple door opened, many people saw that the North Korean is wearing a black hat and a group leader, and bowed four times, so they pointed and said, this is like a "field play", the so-called "field play" is to wear ancient clothes to act Originally, in the memory of ordinary people at that time, only the drill people in the "field play" will wear "ancient clothes crown", and add a "ancient" word to the word "clothing crown", It shows that this kind of garment and the history it carries are quite distant.

This may be an inevitability under high pressure. The crown is not only a sign of cultural identity, but also a symbol of political recognition. On official occasions in the Qing Dynasty, everyone had to wear clothes that belonged to the "barbarians", otherwise they would be killed. The Han literati at that time said that even Confucius, Mengcheng, and Zhu had to obey this system. At that time, the Koreans were unimpressed with the system of Qing officials wearing counting beads, saying that this was not "the legal uniform of the first king", but the Han literati told him that you don't know the system of the Qing Dynasty, but when the Korean envoy deliberately ridiculed that counting beads is something that believes in Buddhism. The Han literati said solemnly, "No, although Cheng Zhu is in the present world, he dares not to bring yes."

However, on the stage, he still wears this kind of ancient Han clothes.

Originally, the clearing official also had some vigilance against the repeated appearance of the former dynasty's clothes on the stage, and such a thing happened in the early days of Kangxi: the criminal department caught Wang Yu and Liang Qizi, who did not mention the law, they claimed to be actors, and they wanted men to dress up as women, so they did not shave their hair, but the emperor was furious, and issued an edict saying that he had ordered those who did not shave their hair to be beheaded before, and did not allow Youling to keep her hair, and these people still disobeyed the order, which is really hateful. Therefore, I would like to warn you again that if you do not shave your hair, you will be shaved within 10 days, and after 10 days, if you do not shave your hair, you will be severely punished. However, the ban is a ban, perhaps because people are accustomed to the Han clothes on the stage, and even the performances of the Manchu court and the private nobles are still "Ming clothes", which makes the opera field "slip through the net" to obtain the exemption of "Yi Yi color", and it is very peculiar to retain the traditional costumes of the Han people in history on the stage. Hong Darong was once surprised, "I have tasted the emperor's journey to the south, and the palace floor and the stage are extremely luxurious, and what are the benefits of the stage?" Pan Tingyun, a friend of the Han nationality, said, "The stage has the beauty of the stage, and it has the prestige of Han officials." Therefore, in a sense, the stage has become a place to recall the historical memory of the Han people.

This kind of thinking is that the North Koreans have already thought of it. In the last years of Kangxi, Cui Dezhong passed by Yongping Mansion on the way back to North Korea, and happened to see acting, and he noticed that the characters in these plays were wearing court clothes and military uniforms of the Ming Dynasty and even the Song Dynasty. However, when Xu Changfudao, another envoy to Beijing, discovered the mystery of this, he said that the clothes used on the stage are all the clothes of the Chinese dynasties, which is "the courtesy of the wilderness". And among these things, Hong Darong is particularly sensitive to this peculiar phenomenon, but Pan Tingjun asked him, "What are the benefits of the scene?" At that time, Hong Darong understood and said, "If you don't go through the play, you can steal it." They understand each other that the so-called "take". It is because people can "see the prestige of Han officials again" on the stage.

Maybe this is not necessarily the true sense of friendship to retain the "prestige of Han officials", but just due to the negligence of the Qing Empire's shaving order. However, it refers to a few remnants of historical relics that gave the Korean envoys an infinite reverie of foreign pathos, which they felt might be something that the Han Chinese painstakingly preserved. It wasn't until the eighth year of Daoguang (1828) that a North Korean envoy named Park Sihao came to China, saw the play on the stage, and felt that the special clothes on the stage were deliberately done by the Han people. At the beginning of the Qing Dynasty, some people were worried about the lack of clothing in the past dynasties, and set it up as this play, which painted people's ears and eyes, and said what they said. Isn't it far-sighted? In other words, in their opinion, among these "Han official prestige", they really embody the thoughts of the Han people's homeland.

4. Crowns and Uniforms of Foreign Envoys: Exemptions from Foreign Envoys

The reminiscent Han costumes not only appear on the stage, but also on foreign envoys.

During the Ming and Qing dynasties, China changed color, and according to the Koreans, it was already full of bloody barbarians. The phrase "courtesy and seeking the wilderness" is not only often remembered by Han literati, but also put on the lips of the secretly complacent Korean envoys. When foreign envoys came to Beijing, the Qing court resigned themselves to their costumes, so Korea, Ryukyu and Annam wore the clothes of the former Ming Dynasty as usual, and swaggered through the market.

There are images of Joseon, Annam, and Ryukyu characters in various "Pictures for the Emperor's Qing Dynasty", which can cite some records of Korean envoys in the "Yan Xinglu". Xu Haoxiu, who was an envoy to China in the late Qianlong period, recorded that the clothing of the envoys of Annam was roughly the same as that of Korea, "after the hair was tied down, they wore black gauze hats, were dressed in red robes with wide sleeves, dragged gold tortoiseshell belts, and wore black leather boots". Kim Jong-chung, a general colleague, also recorded that the Ryukyu envoys who went to Beijing with them had a wide robe and were still the system of the ancients, using yellow silk as a belt, tightly tied to the waist, and using a yellow silk headkerchief on their heads, similar to the head of North Korea. The Annamite people, on the other hand, wore high scarves and bands at the corners of their robes, which were closer to North Korea, and called their hats "Wengong Guan".

However, compared with the Ryukyus and Annam, the Koreans have more of a Chinese cultural inheritor mentality, although they are also "big things" and "Hajj", the Koreans still feel that only they adhere to the authentic Chinese religion, as long as the Ryukyu and Annam envoys are slightly more dressed than the Manchus, they will look down on them in their hearts. Xu Haoxiu, who was extremely dissatisfied with the Manchu costumes worn by the monarchs and ministers of the Annan mission during the Hajj, asked sarcastically knowingly, "What does your country's crown suit want to do in Manchuria?" The people of Annam replied that the Emperor had commended our king for coming to the Hajj himself, so he had given us special clothes for which we had been ordered to use when we were on pilgrimage to Peking and to wear the clothes we had returned to on the way back to China, which were only temporary expedient. Originally, this was a cautious strategy of the Annan people at that time, but under Xu Haoxiu's deliberate questioning of "political correctness", it is said that the Annan people were also ashamed. Kim Jong-chung criticized the Ryukyuan people with contempt, saying that they were frivolous and cunning and not prudent enough, even though they were not impeccablely dressed, but the Korean envoys felt that their culture was not so authentic. The Burmese are the remnants of the Three Kingdoms, they wear python clothes, but they do not wear crowns and hats, and comb their hair, which is extremely ridiculous.

Speaking of which, the Koreans seem to be quite harsh and conceited in terms of dressing and hats, and they have a kind of condescension in the face of the Ryukyus and Annam, and even in the face of the Qing people, they also show disdain from the bottom of their hearts. Kim Jong-chung replied proudly, this is the inauguration of China, haven't you heard of it? When Chinese scholars praised them as a country of clothes, they deliberately asked what generation China's clothes came from. Like Park Sihao, chatting with Han literati, he didn't open which pot to mention, and deliberately said provocatively, your Qing country's hat and narrow sleeves were actually used for the banquet and sacrifice to conquer Yanju, so is this the Chinese system? Gao Manzao looked at each other, and had to answer embarrassedly: This is not the legacy of the Tang, Song and Ming dynasties, but the system of the Qing Dynasty. At this time, the North Korean envoys were psychologically extremely self-satisfied, but the hearts of the Han Chinese were somewhat unpleasant.

5. Han women's clothing: the blurring of the edges

The edges are blurred by the edges, and they are not taken seriously and are exempt from supervision.

Like the clothing of foreign envoys, the clothing of Manchu women sometimes became a resource to activate the historical memory of the Han Chinese. Shen Congwen's "Research on Ancient Chinese Costumes" used Jiao Bingzhen's painting, Zhu Gui's carving "Cultivation and Weaving Map" and the early Qing Dynasty's "Yan Sleep Yiqing Picture" as examples to show that women's clothing in the Qing Dynasty still followed the late Ming Dynasty, such as high buns, flower hairpins, cardigan coats or paddy field clothes, long skirts, or cloud shoulders, from Wanli to Kangxi and Yongzheng. Even the Manchu imperial concubines in the "Twelve Concubines of Yongzheng" in the Palace Museum wore Han clothes. This is true, sometimes, aesthetic habits do not follow the political discipline, the Kangxi period of the envoy to Beijing Cui Dezhong noticed that Han women have to wear folded clothes, the upper body is dressed in Ming Dynasty clothes, the head is decorated with colorful flowers and pearls, when going out the face is covered with black veil, some ride donkeys. So he sighed and said, "The woman is still wearing bright clothes, cute." ”

The cuteness of the Ming clothes and the ugliness of the Qing crowns are, of course, the stubborn opinion of the Koreans, but the contempt for Manchu habits is accompanied only by a preference for the Han people. The Koreans insisted on wearing the Han clothes from very early days, and regarded it as a symbol of "civilization", in the preface to the frontispiece of the "Records of the Three Kingdoms", Jin Fushi counted the changes in the clothing from Silla to Goryeo, he said, to the Jin Chunqiu was rewarded by the Emperor Taizong of the Tang Dynasty, and returned to Korea to promote, then the Chinese changed to Yi, and later when the King of Wenmu was the king, and reformed the women's clothing, since then, the clothes and crowns are completely the same as China, and Korea has since entered the "civilization". It is worth noting that originally the preference for this clothing was only a yearning for another civilization, but after the Ming and Qing dynasties in China, it had the significance of establishing the legitimacy of Korean civilization. Still wearing the Ming Dynasty clothes makes them proud to claim that they are "Little China" and China is already a "state of Yidi". The costumes of Han women, in the Manchu Qing Dynasty, still followed the late Ming Dynasty, which brought them an impression, as if it was really "men descending to women", and Han women placed the historical memory of the Han nationality.

Revelation. Originally, the Manchu Dynasty still wanted to unify clothing, and when Kangxi was not yet in power (1664), there was a motion in the imperial court to prohibit Han women from wearing Han clothes. To satisfy the officials' feeling that "the Qing country is the world, the world can not be the same or different", however, it is said that "after this round came out, the Han people were angry, and they did not lose their hearts, probably to their clothes, untie their feet, and look like a person who shaved his head", probably encountered a fierce backlash, and even the officials knew that this was "a move to invite resentment, and it was deeply concerning", so it was sent to the imperial court, and there was no real action after a long time.

Speaking of which, the Han women of the Manchu Dynasty wore the clothes of the Ming Dynasty, on the one hand, because the Manchu Qing Dynasty implemented the policy of "men descend to women", but on the other hand, it conforms to the strong inertia of traditional aesthetic concepts. Although the Manchu Qing Dynasty entered China, the Han people's clothing or ancient clothes in the minds of people, there is still a culture and history of elegant symbols, that era is not like the era of chasing fashion and trendy, in people's minds, classical is elegant, and fashion is just customs. In novels, operas, and calligraphy and paintings, in order to express an imaginary and noble "beauty", this kind of classical, rather than fashionable clothing, is still needed. The inertia of this aesthetic concept continues, which seems insignificant, but it has brought about a far-reaching consequence, that is, on the one hand, the ancient clothing has always become a symbol of beauty to arouse boast and pride, and on the other hand, it has become a symbol of shame that has always touched the ethnic consciousness of the Han nation. And see the painting book, although the painting of recent figures, crowns and hats are all in accordance with the Han Yi, it can be seen here, although it has to follow the time system, and the heart is humble also".

Epilogue: The general public of "pupils".

Having said that, although the braided costumes of stage figures, foreign envoys, and Han women may constantly stimulate the ethnic memory of the Han people, the practical power of political power is, after all, far greater than the psychological humiliation of historical memory, and ordinary people, even those who are well versed in history, still have to accept this humiliation when living in the real world, shaving their traditional Han hair and putting on Manchu clothes. On his way to Beijing, the North Korean envoy Li Yixian met a scholar named Ma Zuo, and when he talked about his clothes, he "looked ashamed." That is, the book says: We are not envious, but we respect the ears of the time."

What is "punctuality"? It is to compromise with reality, because it is outside the scope of the direct control of the Manchu Qing Dynasty, so the Koreans are not very able to understand the hardships of the Han people, but have a reversed conceit and contempt. In the thirty-ninth year of Kangxi (1700), a Korean envoy named Jiang Milling wrote two poems in Qingguoxie, first saying that "the envoy is looking for the Qin realm from afar, and the people are surprised by the Han clothes", and then "Chu Shi is a few light Qin officials, and the barbarians are strange Han clothes." This is very interesting, in the eyes of the Han people, the Koreans who were originally Dongyi arrived in China, but it is strange that the real China cannot be found here, the Han people who were originally Chinese, but in the eyes of the Koreans, they became "Yi people" and "barbarians", but they were strange and surprised by the Ming clothes worn by their ancestors. No wonder Hong Darong during the Qianlong period wanted to laugh at the Han Chinese and said, "The change of China's clothes and crowns has been more than 100 years." Today, only the old system exists in the East, and its entry into China is also a shame on the ignorant. Woohoo, it forgot its roots. If you see the hat band, you will say that you are a kind of scene, if you see your hair, you will be called a woman, and if you see a shirt with big sleeves, you will be called a monk."

Perhaps, the accusation is too harsh, the criticism is too rash, and the ridicule is not loyal enough, because the Han scholars have already made it clear that this is a last resort, and even Cheng and Zhu were alive in this era, and they had to shave their hair and braid, and wear Manchu clothes. The price of "conforming to time" is the suppressed historical memory, and the suppression of this historical memory is because the Han people have experienced a very tragic and long bloody time, while the Koreans did not experience it at that time.

===Dividing line===

After reading the above text, Yuko inexplicably felt like she was in tears! Where is the end of the world?

In other words, on May 13th, A.D. 1998, violent crimes against the Chinese began to occur in India, which was called the "Black and Colored May Riots".

In addition, voice actor Junji Majima (this is Ayumi Aikawa of the zombie and Kinji Toyama of the scarlet bomb Arya) is today's birthday.