Brahmaputra line

Located at the eastern starting point of the Himalayas, Medog is the outlet of the Brahmaputra River in China and the main area of the Brahmaputra Grand Canyon. Metuo belongs to the Nyingchi region, and the county has a population of just over 10,000, mainly inhabited by the Momba and Lhoba ethnic groups. Geographically, Medog is a special place in Tibet, with an altitude of less than 1,000 meters above sea level and primeval forests scattered throughout the territory. Because the warm current of the Indian Ocean flows up the Brahmaputra River, the climate of Metuo is a tropical rainforest climate, and there are no four seasons in the year, but only a dry season and a rainy season. Due to geological reasons, there was no road in the territory of Metuo until 2012, when the Garong Lasui Road was completed, and the road was opened to traffic. Motuo is the last county seat in the country to be connected to a road. Before the road was opened, very few people from outside entered Metuo. The road into the mountain is extremely difficult, in addition to climbing the snow-capped mountains, you have to pass through a large area of primeval forest, and the road is full of cliffs. Because of the simplicity of the people and the excellent scenery, Motuo has always been regarded as a mysterious place by the outside world.

In the summer of 2014, I hiked to Motuo on my own with fully paid outdoor gear.

From Bomi, I crossed the Galongla Pass and followed the road through the primeval forest to the territory of Metuo. Then set off from Daguo and go up the Brahmaputra River.

It was my first solo hike. The total weight of all my equipment, water and food was about 80 pounds, and I didn't feel much when I first left, but after walking a few kilometers, the weight weighed me enough. Along the way up the mountain, every time I walked for a kilometer or so, I had to stop for a while, and sometimes I took longer to catch my breath than to walk. I want to throw the backpack that oppresses me behind my back into the valley at my feet, but I can't throw away the backpack and the contents of my back as well. The contents of the backpack are calculated and calculated before departure, streamlined and streamlined, and everything has its purpose. On the first day, with enthusiasm, I persevered for more than 20 kilometers. The next day was quite difficult. The heavy backpack combined with the fatigue of the previous day made my legs heavier and heavier, and I walked significantly less distance than the day before. It was the rainy season at this time, and it rained for the past two days, although the heavy rain fell in bursts and periods, but the intervals were very short. I was wearing a jungle raincoat, and the rain outside couldn't penetrate it, but the raincoat was not breathable, and the sweat inside soaked my body was no different from the rain. Fortunately, the tent is waterproof and can sleep well at night. The third day was a rare sunny day, but it became a test for me. On that day, I climbed all the way up the mountain, and although it was windy in the mountain and it was cool to find the shade of the trees, I was doubly tired when I walked. By the time I reached the top of the mountain on the verge of collapse, it was already the moon. I tossed and turned in my tent that night, and the question of whether to move forward or backward kept torturing me. It wasn't until the next morning that I packed my bags, backpacked and stood there arguing about whether to move forward or turn backwards. In the end, it was the idea of moving forward that prevailed. I gritted my teeth, and now that I've come to this point, I can only move forward. Otherwise, I am afraid that I will never have such a chance again in this life. It took more than just courage for me to hike.

After that, the walking did not seem to be so difficult, first, I passed the hurdle in my heart, second, the amount of food and drink in my backpack was decreasing day by day, and third, I adjusted the goal of hiking, and changed to the purpose of reaching the destination to enjoy the scenery along the way. In this way, I began to be fascinated by the scenery on both sides of the Brahmaputra River. The lush forests and bizarre peaks are amazing. I don't set myself a destination for the day, as long as the scenery is pleasant, I stop, even if it's only a few kilometers a day. Along the way, I followed the traces of the warm currents of the Indian Ocean during the day. At night, I sometimes fall asleep under the waterfall of the river, sometimes sleep with the sound of the Brahmaputra River, and sometimes sleep with the wind and dew of the primeval forest.

Just walk and see, on the side of the Brahmaputra River, parallel to the Grand Canyon. When I come across a village, I usually eat and stay with the locals. When I was with them, I was touched again and again by their primitive and essential humanity, by their simplicity and kindness.

Since I chose a cold walking route, I didn't meet a single tourist along the way. A person's walk is also leisurely, meditating on the landscape when resting, and contemplating when walking. In such a time and space, it is natural to think of many things that have never been thought of before.

Starting from Daguo, I walked smoothly through Zhucun, Bangxin, and Xidian. Starting from Zongrong, the road comes to an end, and after that, there is the mountain road where the horses walk. Walk along the mountain road, through Qutangka, Resa, and then the mountain road that only hunters have walked. From the mountain road, it passes through the uninhabited area, the Bird Valley, the Leech Mountain, the Sinzhaba Forest, the Oulongba Waterfall, and the Rhododendron Forest, and smoothly arrives at the foot of the Sola Mountain. As long as you climb over the Suila Pass, cross the Lingon Ranch and Guxiang Lake, you will reach the 318 National Highway and end this trekking.

A week later, I went to the county seat of Motuo. Seeing Motuo sitting on the belly of a huge Buddha with his arms outstretched, and seeing the huge loop of the Brahmaputra River after rushing out of the Grand Canyon, I felt a kind of life force.